Valle de Viñales Attractions

On the 5th day of my Cuba trip, we travel from Pinar del Río to the Viñales Valley. The program includes: A hike along small farms, fruit and vegetable plantations, tobacco fields, and the Mogotes mountains (Mogotes are conical hills). We will also visit a farmer who makes cigars. He will show us how to roll authentic cigars. Muy bien.

The breakfast at Hotel Vueltabajo in Pinar del Río is quite modest: omelette with bread that, like almost everywhere in Cuba, tastes more like unroasted toast. I can choose a drink to go with it. By the time everyone has their omelette, it takes an eternity. We almost miss the bus to Viñales.

If you are planning a trip to Cuba: Do not stay in a hotel; instead, stay in a Casa Particular in Viñales. I found the place much more appealing and charming than Pinar del Río.

More tips can be found here: Planning a trip to Cuba - all travel tips and information

We stop at a viewpoint from where you have the best view of the Valle de Viñales. A hotel has been built here in the meantime. I am not sure if you can still enjoy this view as a non-hotel guest. The hotel is called: Hotel Horizontes Los Jazmines.

The first impression of Viñales is overwhelmingly positive. I find it much more friendly and cozy here than in Pinar del Río. Our local guide for the hike is already waiting for us. We leave Viñales, passing a sports field and an 'open-air gym', then we encounter farms and fields. First, we visit a tobacco house where the tobacco leaves are dried.

Next, we meet a farmer who grows everything himself: alternating tobacco and corn, bananas, and much more. The farmer shows us how a cigar is rolled (video to follow) and everyone gets to try it. We buy a pack of 10 for 20 CUC (better stick with almost all, as the cigars later got moldy; edit: mine are fine).

We hike past various plantations and fields. Bananas, coffee, corn, sugar cane, cassava, tobacco, pineapples, avocados, peanuts, papayas, coconuts, beans, mangos, guavas, rice, and various types of potatoes are grown here. A dream.

At a vegetable and fruit farm adjacent to the fields, we buy freshly squeezed pineapple juice for 1 CUC and receive mini-bananas as a gift.

After a few more meters of mud and more fields, we reach the foot of the mountain. From here, it's a steep climb of about 200 meters upwards. After that, we're well-sweated from the midday heat. At the cave entrance, some bats are hanging. From up here, there's a great view. Just as steeply, we head down the other side of the cave. Clay, rock, and mud - damp and slippery.

We walk around the mountain back to Viñales. From there we go to a lagoon where you can take a boat ride. I wait at the exit - I've seen this kind of thing a few times while traveling. It probably wasn't that exciting At the super delicious paladar "Yuri y Nino," we get food (including lobster). This food is even better.

After about an hour drive back to Pinar del Río, we hop in the shower. Afterward, we decide to look for something to eat, and a local from the hotel recommends El Rapido, a Cuban fast food chain. Pizza and cola for 2 CUC.

The best way to get to Viñales is by Viazul bus. They stop right in the center at the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus. From here, you can easily reach your accommodation on foot.

Our hotel was located in Pinar del Río. We did not stay in Viñales. If you do the opposite (which I recommend), you should still visit Cuba's tobacco capital as a day trip. We were able to watch the employees in tobacco factories up close.

Dreamy islands to relax and unwind can be found at Cayo Levisa. Of course, the small paradise island is no longer as quiet as during my visit. Nonetheless, you should consider at least a day trip here.

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