Southern Sweden Road Trip: Highlights in Skåne and Småland Travel Blog VIEL UNTERWEGS

Key Highlights

A road trip with a camper van in southern Sweden took me from Malmö to Stockholm. Always along the coast of the Baltic Sea, with detours inland over two weeks. Actually, my plan was to quickly drive through Sweden on my way to the North Cape to spend much time in Norway. However, I enjoyed the landscape in southern Sweden so much that I spent much longer here than I initially thought.

My favorite highlights: Skanör-Falsterbo, Malmö, Vimmerby (Astrid Lindgren fan), Uppsala, and the nature.
Getting there: The start of my road trip was Malmö. I took the ferry from Trelleborg to Malmö.
How to travel: In a camper van, personal car or rental car (the train is a good option for arrival). You can't avoid a car if you want to see the places I've described.
Costs and budget: Ferry to Malmö: €142, for all other expenses around €800 (I traveled alone).
Payment in Sweden: Sweden is in the EU, but you pay with Swedish Krona (SEK). Sweden is almost cashless. You need a good travel credit card. The price level is generally higher than in Germany.

Route in Southern Sweden

I spent about 14 days with the camper van (camper) in southern Sweden. If you have less time, pick your personal highlights; you can visit the highlights in a shorter time or spend more time at the beach and see fewer cities.

I am increasingly embracing slow travel and am happy to stay longer in a place if I like it. Before this trip, I only had one goal: the North Cape (complete travel report on Sweden and Finland to the North Cape, through Norway to Germany in 2 months).

(Note: Some may find the places visited quite 'stressful.' I like to get up early while traveling, and the days are packed with activities and sightseeing).

Here you will find my favorite places and highlights in southern Sweden between Malmö and Stockholm for 2 weeks (you can easily spend 3 weeks or longer). At the end of the article, you will find tips for planning before the trip: recommended guides, toll box, and more. My used parking spots, campgrounds, and tips for tolls, ferries, and SIM cards for Sweden. If you have any questions, please use the comment function at the end of the article!

Getting to Southern Sweden

The journey from southern Germany to Travemünde takes me more than seven hours (about 700 km). In the evening, I arrive at the parking spot near the ferry terminals. Unfortunately, the spot is completely full. I use - like some other camper drivers - the adjacent parking lot. This way, I can check in for the ferry the next morning well-rested after a quiet night. I booked the ferry for the day. Alternatively, you can take the night ferry.

Parking location on Google Maps, 49 spots, no reservation possible
Ferry: There are connections with TT Lines and Finnlines. Finnlines was cheaper and faster for me. Search for the cheapest connection here.
Cost of the ferry with Finnlines: 1 person €42, 1 vehicle up to 6 meters long over 2.10 meters high (€41), WIFI (€9), and booking an outside cabin (€49) totaled to €142 for me. However, I booked quite late.
Ferries depart once in the morning and once in the evening or at night for Malmö every weekday.

Öresund Bridge

The first highlight awaits you just before you land in Malmö. For the ferry passes under the Öresund Bridge.

The 8 km long Öresund Bridge connects Copenhagen (Denmark) with Malmö (Sweden). Since 2000, you can easily and quickly cross from Copenhagen to Malmö. Since 2012, the bridge gained even more notoriety through the TV series 'The Bridge', which drove millions of Germans to binge-watch this crime series episode after episode. I am also a fan of this series.

Malmö

The third largest city in Sweden and largest city in the Skåne region does not impress everyone. However, I really enjoyed it here. The most beautiful place in Malmö is the old marketplace Lilla Torg with historic timber-framed houses and great little shops.

The multicultural city, whose residents come from more than 150 different countries, I explored in 2 days. The cityscape is characterized by many modern architecturally interesting buildings and a wonderful historical old town. There are beaches and a modern harbor district. A total of about 280,000 people live here.

My tips for Malmö with attractions

Highlights in Malmö:

Harbor in Malmö — Modern buildings in the harbor of Malmö photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Turning Torso Malmö — Turning Torso in Malmö photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Turning Torso and Västra Hamnen
Old Town Gamla Staden
Lilla Torg
St. Peter's Church
Malmöhus
Castle and Castle Park
Ribersborgsstranden with Kallbadhuset
Malmö Live
Öresund Bridge
Library
Parking spot: Limhamns Småbåtshamn RV parking (make sure to reserve in advance in summer); 500 SEK for 2 nights.
There are e-scooters everywhere, making it easy to reach the city center on the bike path. Tip: Daily passes for VOI scooter are the cheapest. The parking spot also has bicycles that you can rent.

Lund

Lund houses one of the oldest universities in Scandinavia. Along with Uppsala in the east, it is the largest student city in Sweden. Statistically, every second of the approximately 100,000 residents is a student. In Lund, I found the impressive building of the library, which reminded me of Harry Potter, fantastic. Lund is also home to the oldest and largest cathedral in Scandinavia. Particularly noteworthy inside is the astronomical clock from the 14th century with zodiac signs. The cathedral also houses the largest organ in Sweden with over 7,000 pipes.

For lunch, head to the food hall Saluhall, a miniature version of the food halls of Malmö and Stockholm. A stroll through the shopping street Klostergatan is idyllic. Here, you'll also find small cafes and restaurants and can indulge in cinnamon buns or fish dishes.

Tip: Bakery Broder Jakobs in the old town for delicious pastries and of course cinnamon buns.

Highlights in Lund:

University in Lund, Sweden photo by viel-unterwegs.de

The university in Lund reminds of Harry Potter photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Library in Lund, Sweden photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Domkyrka Lund (Cathedral) and the Astronomical Clock
Botanical Garden with over 7000 different plant species. Part of the university since the 17th century.
University Library
Old Town
University in Lund
Sketch Museum
Archaeological Museum, one of the largest in Sweden
Open-air Museum Kulturen
Marketplace Mårtenstorget, where a flower and vegetable market is held in the morning
Lund Stortorget, once the main town square
Grand Hotel, the best hotel in the city. Very traditional with a lot of history.
In Lund, I found a parking spot (payable via app) with the Park4Night app. A half day was enough for my exploration.
Overnight again in Malmö at the parking spot or in Skanör-Falsterbo by the sea.

Skanör-Falsterbo

If you ask me for the most beautiful place in Skåne, I would answer without hesitation: Skanör-Falsterbo. The peninsula offers beautiful, over 40 km of white sandy beaches and colorful fishing huts that you can rent among the dunes. Kitesurfers, beach lovers, and amber fans come here.

In both Skanör and Falsterbo, you can admire picturesque houses everywhere and enjoy the long beaches. As a popular holiday destination, there are numerous vacation homes, hotels, restaurants, and cafes.

I spent a lot of time not only at the beach but also in the dunes to see the many small pastel-colored bathing houses. The bathing houses were once built to change before bathing, providing shelter from the sun and wind.

Along the Falsterbo peninsula, there are also hiking trails. Follow the orange markings to explore the 31 km along the beaches, cow pastures, and excellent birdwatching spots.

Tips for Visiting:

Dining on the beach at Restaurant Badhytten in Skanör
There are many parking spaces at the beach, including a parking spot for campers (Link to Google Maps; immediately on the right side), which offers a few spots. The walk to the water is only a few meters, ideal.

Ystad

The writer Henning Mankell made this harbor city famous: Ystad in Skåne. In Ystad and its surroundings, you can visit many places from the crime stories of Kurt Wallander. They all really exist. Stroll through the streets of the old town with the colorful houses and visit the film studios, where you can see some props and sets. Small but fine!

You can park at the harbor (Aimo Parking) or at the RV parking in Ystad. I drove to Ale Stenar for the night.

Noteworthy Places in Ystad

Old town with about 300 beautifully preserved timber-framed houses from the 17th and 18th centuries
Landmark Ystad's St. Mary's Church, Sankta Maria kyrka, partly dating back to the 13th century
St. Peter's monastery (Gråbröderklostret), one of the best-preserved in Sweden

Ale Stenar

Ales Stenar Sweden — photo by viel-unterwegs.de

I completely underestimated this site and its effect on me before my visit. I almost wanted to skip it. Luckily I didn't. 'Stonehenge of Sweden' is what I read about the 70 by 20 meters large ship setting Ales Stenar (sometimes also called Ales Stenar), which dates back to the 6th century.

From Ystad, it's only 16 km to the 59 stones (it used to be 60) forming a ship. The site is idyllically located on a hill by the village of Kåseberga directly by the sea. To this day, no one knows why and when these stones were erected. Whether as a burial site, a sun calendar, or as a ship setting.

Visit this site in the morning, preferably before breakfast. Then you can enjoy this tranquility alone and let the place resonate with you. Afterwards, take the detour to the harbor, which I found excellent. A few restaurants and a food truck offer food and drinks.

Parking on a large meadow at Ales Stenar in Löderup (Ales Väg 2, 27646 Löderup). Free parking until 7 PM, then €15 per night with water, shower, and toilet (there is also power, but no waste disposal).

Sandhammaren

The mile-long white sandy beach is the most beautiful one Sweden has to offer. Here in the Österlen region, you'll find some of the best beaches in Sweden. The sand here is extremely fine, and it's no wonder it's one of Sweden's most beloved beaches. However, it's never crowded, as the beach is really huge. If you're like me, traveling in a camper, you just need to come early because parking is limited along the road (the regular parking lot has a height restriction).

Due to dangerous currents and sandbanks around this coast, the sea near Sandhammaren is a huge ship graveyard. Allegedly, over 1,000 wrecks lie on the seabed here.

National Park Stenshuvud: Knäbäckshusens Beach

Knäbäckshusens beach, known not just to Swedes — Knäbäckshusens Beach, known not just to Swedes photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Although I didn't spend time in the national park on my way to the North Cape, I enjoyed the beautiful beach at Knäbäckshusens. The parking spaces are unfortunately very limited, primarily for campers. There's one parking lot with a height restriction, the other is heavily frequented. I was lucky enough to find a spot that became available.

I spent a few hours here before moving on. As there are signs stating that camping is prohibited, I wouldn't risk staying here overnight.

Kivik

Kivik is known as the 'Apple City,' and at the end of September, you can taste fruits at the apple market at many stalls. There are even artworks made from apples on display. Around the harbor, there are stalls selling ice cream, food, and drinks.

In the summer, one of Sweden's largest fairs takes place with the Kiwis market.

Directly next to Kiwi is the Stenshuvud National Park (Stone Head). The national park offers numerous hiking opportunities, and along the coast, there are places where the steep coast drops up to 100 meters.

With the camper van, you need to park further away from the harbor. Parking is limited and partly prohibited for campers.

Ronneby

Ronneby is one of four coastal towns in the province of Blekinge. The scenic region benefits from its location on the archipelago coast mixed with the forests and lakes of Småland in the hinterland.

Due to its iron-rich springs, the town is well known as a spa town throughout Sweden. The nicest attraction is the Brunnspark spa in the Ronneby Brunn on the outskirts of town. The spa park, over 300 years old, counts among the most beautiful parks in Europe with its varied design and beautiful old buildings.

The medieval Heliga Kors Kyrka in the historic district of the old spa town is also noteworthy. The church from the 12th century is primarily known for the beautiful brick masonry of its vaulted arches and the medieval frescoes. Unfortunately, the church was closed during my visit, and I couldn't see inside.

Kalmar

The small town of Kalmar is directly on the crossing to the island of Öland on the Småland coast. Stroll through the streets of the historic center and explore the impressive town hall around Stortorget.

The main highlight in Kalmar is the castle surrounded by wide moats from the 12th century. The city advertises it as 'the least modern attraction in the city.' It is said that Kalmar Castle is the best-preserved Renaissance palace in Northern Europe, built on a small peninsula on the Baltic coast and separated from the mainland by a moat.

Note: You definitely need comfortable shoes for Kalmar's uneven cobblestone streets in the medieval center. Take a coffee break at the historic city courtyard Krusenstiernska gården.

Large parking lot directly by the train station. RV parking is also available at the train station (though not ideal, it was too busy for me).
Entrance to Kalmar Castle: 155 SEK

Västervik

The pearl of the east coast is said to be Västervik. I really enjoyed the archipelago landscape around Västervik, the small town with many restaurants and cafes, as well as a (reportedly) great nightlife and surprisingly for me: a lot of street art.

In the summer, Västervik is a popular bathing resort with one of the best campsites in Sweden. I prefer parking spots. However, it's also hard to find a spontaneous spot (the last one). The coastal strip is 70 km long, and around Västervik, there are about 5,000 islands in the archipelago. Countless excursion boats start daily to explore the archipelago landscape.

Activities in and around Västervik

Västervik Archipelago Southern Sweden — photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Historic wooden houses in the old town
St. Gertrude's Church from the 15th century
Ride the old museum railway to Hultsfred, 70 kilometers away
Great view from the 18-meter high observation tower Unos Torn
Old castle ruins Stegeholm, where a music festival takes place in summer
RV parking in Västervik: There are two parking spots directly by the sea in Västervik: Ställplats Barlastudden and Ställplats Sågen. The first one (closer to the center) was full, so I was lucky to still book the last spot at the second one (Ställplats Sågen). Everything can be reserved via this linked website: Definitely reserve here in advance.

Day trip from Västervik: Gamleby Trollskogen

By chance, I came across the tip for Gamleby Trollskogen. So I drove north from Västervik for another 30 minutes to hike along Gamleby Trollskogen to a beautiful viewpoint. Troll sculptures are scattered throughout the forest. The path is an experience for kids and adults alike. The artist Ja Pol designed about 80 troll sculptures. Upon reaching the top of the hill, you have a great view over the land and water. There are benches for picnicking and a guest book you can sign.

A lovely, short hike. Not suitable for strollers, as it goes over a narrow winding path in the forest with many roots.

Vimmerby

Astrid Lindgren's World, Theme Park photo by viel-unterwegs.de

The sculptures in Michel's shed photo by viel-unterwegs.de

The lemonade tree photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Michel's farm in Katthult photo by viel-unterwegs.de

The home of Pippi Longstocking and Michel from Lönneberga is one of the most beautiful attractions for me. You simply must visit the heroes of my childhood and the home of the author Astrid Lindgren.

Highlights in and around Vimmerby include Astrid Lindgren's World, a theme park for young and old children centered around Astrid Lindgren's most famous characters. Live theater and singing, Villa Kunterbunt, Krachmacherstraße, and much more.

In front of the town hall in Vimmerby stands the Astrid Lindgren monument, and in Näs near Vimmerby, you can visit the wonderfully crafted museum and birthplace of Astrid Lindgren.

Bullerbü, Sevedstorp, is located in the municipality of Pelarne. Since the houses are privately owned, you can only take photos from the outside and should respect their privacy. Bullerbü is signposted from the road between Vimmerby, Mariannelund, and Lönneberga.

The Katthult farm of Michel from Lönneberga is in Gibberyd, about 30 minutes from Vimmerby. At the entrance to the village is the Astrid Johannsson Gård farm, which served as the filming location for Katthult. All places can easily be explored in one day.

Eksjö

On the way to Gränna, I wanted to make a stop: Eksjö. Here you can get a wonderful insight into the history of the region. The old town of Eksjö is really worth seeing, as it has preserved the old wooden house architecture. Visit the Eksjö Museum (Österlånggatan 31) and explore the well-preserved manor houses. More than 50 buildings in Sweden's best-preserved wooden town (all listed as historical monuments) can be explored here.

Gränna

In the north of Småland on the eastern shore of Lake Vättern lies the idyllic place Gränna.

The town of Polkagriser (translated as Polka Pigs) - sugar sticks made from water, sugar, and vinegar. These are handmade here, and you can watch the process. The classic is red-white with peppermint. Meanwhile, there are over 20 flavors available, of course, cheaper in a package (10 for 100 SEK). A great souvenir for everyone left at home.

Located on the southern Vättern Lake, the town has another highlight: the Polar Museum, which tells the story of the expedition by Salomon August Andrée in a hot air balloon to the Arctic. At least the plan for it, as they unfortunately failed. Very worth seeing and made entertaining.

In good weather, you should take a day trip to the island of Visingsö. Ferries depart regularly from Gränna right by the campsite. You can also rent bicycles on the island. Unfortunately, the weather was not good during my visit.

Tips for Visiting

Stay overnight at the Gränna campground, directly by Lake Vättern, cost: 425 SEK/night with electricity (expensive). There is also a cheaper parking spot adjacent. However, I had to wash my clothes, so I checked in at the campground.

Göta Canal Locks Berg

The 190 km long Göta Canal, the 'blue ribbon of Sweden,' runs from Gothenburg in the west to the Baltic Sea. Due to the large vertical differences, the canal has 58 locks.

Just a few kilometers northwest of Linköping is the greatest attraction of the Göta Canal: the Berg locks. They connect the Göta Canal with Lake Roxen. This attraction in Östergötland attracts many visitors. There is a large parking lot and several cafes and restaurants on site.

The Berg facility consists of a double lock (the Berg locks), a second double lock (Oscar's lock), and a lock staircase directly by Roxen (Carl Johans lock staircase). Unfortunately, during my visit in mid-August, after the Swedish summer holidays, the season had already ended, and no boats passed through the locks.

I should add that I was here on a Tuesday. On weekends, several boats operate in southern Sweden.

Pay conveniently at the parking lot with Easy Pay or at the machine. Don't think nobody checks anyway. It is regularly checked. During my visit, it caught some of the parked vehicles around me.

Linköping

Linköping lies east of Lake Vättern directly on the Göta Canal. It is thus part of the 'blue ribbon of Sweden', as the Göta Canal is also called. The most famous attraction is the open-air museum Gamla Linköping. Along old cobblestone streets, you find about 90 historic wooden houses, almost all relocated from the city center. You can visit all of them for free. Among them are small shops, their courtyards, an old printing house that you can visit, or even a post office.

Uppsala

The fourth-largest city in Sweden is basically a suburb of Stockholm. Just 45 minutes away, you can hike in the footsteps of the Vikings. In Gamla Uppsala, you can find rune stones, royal graves, and cult sites of the Norsemen. According to medieval sources, the Vikings gathered here every nine years to worship their gods Thor, Odin, and Frey. Allegedly, not only animals were sacrificed, but also humans.

Excavations at the three large mounds uncovered ship and urn graves as well as the remains of buried people along with grave goods. The Gamla Uppsala Museum narrates all the myths surrounding the finds.

Stockholm

You just can't miss Stockholm, even if you'd rather immerse yourself in nature. The Swedish capital is, for me, one of the most beautiful cities in Scandinavia. I've been here five times already (or more, I've lost count).

Since there are so many attractions and activities here, you'll find all tips for Stockholm in my free Stockholm guide.

Information for Visiting Stockholm:

Gamla Stan Stockholm in the evening — Main square of Gamla Stan: Stortorget in Stockholm photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Skinnarviksberget Stockholm's best view photo by viel-unterwegs.de

ABBA Museum in Stockholm, a must photo by viel-unterwegs.de

Summer deal for Stockholm discoverers! Save 10% when you purchase your Stockholm Pass - limited time only. Simply enter the code SUMMER (all caps) when booking. Valid only via this link.

If you're traveling by car, here are some hotel tips
RV parking: There are 2 and a campsite available. I like the Langsholmen parking spot, directly in Södermalm (an island next to the old town and the best place for great food). 350 SEK/night with electricity. Be sure to book in advance, often fully booked in summer.
Save money while sightseeing: Go Stockholm Pass

Travel Tips for the Road Trip: Planning

Despite having my travel blog, I enjoy reading printed travel guides. I like to browse picture books and Facebook groups as well. Here are the best tips for planning your trip:

Blogs, Travel Guides, and Facebook Groups

Before the trip, I browsed through travel guides, picture books, and blogs. I found super tips in Facebook groups. Everything that appealed to me, I saved in Google Maps: parking spots, campgrounds, and worthwhile places. This way, I could quickly see on site if I had marked a spot. It saves a long search on location when you're tired and just looking for a place to stay.

Sweden with a camper
Sweden Campers
North Cape Tour
Scandinavia Campers
Scandinavia with a camper

Travel Guides and Picture Books for Sweden

For Sweden:

Traveling through Sweden in a camper: Great guide from KUNTH Verlag with many images and tips for routes. I also find it nicer designed than the old guides from Bruckmann Verlag.
DuMont Travel Guide Sweden: Many useful informations for all of Sweden.
MARCO POLO Travel Guide Sweden: A small compact guide with everything important.

Useful (Map) Apps for Travel

Before the trip, I loaded the following apps onto my phone:

Maps.me offline maps for Sweden, Finland, and Norway
Google Maps (can also be saved offline)
EasyPark: Okay, I use this app in Germany too. Ideal for paying for parking (sometimes also for parking spots).
Campercontact, ACSI, camping.info, Camping 21 (ADAC), NorCamp, park4night, Stellplatzradar (promobil)
Weather apps: YR (more accurate for Scandinavia), I actually use WeatherPro.
Currency App (iPhone) for exactly converting SEK to Euro
Komoot to find hikes.

Toll Boxes and Ferries?

Before the trip, I was informed about the toll box (Brikke) and the ferry card (Ferjecort). With these, you can save a lot of money in Norway and Sweden (up to 50%). All the information is thoroughly explained on the Nordlandblog here (and is always updated). Since I spent most of this trip in Norway, I opted for the Brikke AutPass toll box and the Ferjecort.

If you are only traveling in southern Sweden, in my opinion, you do not need a toll box (for Sweden, it would be BroBizz or BroPas). In the cities of Gothenburg and Stockholm, a city toll applies. Depending on what time you arrive in the city, this could be higher or lower (free on weekends). You will be automatically billed for this toll by Enpass24 to the address registered for your vehicle (toll fee Stockholm entrance: €4.43, exit on weekends free).

To Sweden by Car or RV: Two Options

For the journey to Sweden, you can choose two arrivals: through the Öresund bridge and the ferry from Puttgarden to Rødby or directly by ferry. I have detailed all variations in the article with tips for Sweden with a camper. Here too, you can save money.

The Nordlandblog also provides tips on costs, BroBizz, and Epass24

With this suggested route of my highlights in the south of Sweden (on the way to the North Cape), I want to show you how to explore the south coast of Sweden by car or camper. This itinerary is suitable not only for campers but also for vacations in holiday homes with excursions. The places are never far apart.

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