- 1. Southern Patagonia Travel Report: 2 Weeks Road Trip with Highlights of Glaciers and Hiking
- 2. Why Patagonia?
- 3. Travel Route: Southern Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
- 4. Chile Travel with Patagonia Route Map
- 5. Where is Patagonia?
- 6. Getting to Patagonia
- 7. By Plane
- 8. By Bus
- 9. Hiking in Patagonia
- 10. Highlights and Places Visited
- 11. 1. Punta Arenas
- 12. Sightseeing in Punta Arenas
- 13. 2. Puerto Natales
- 14. Restaurant Tips for Puerto Natales
- 15. More Tips for Puerto Natales
- 16. 3. Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park
- 17. The Great Things About the Park
- 18. More Info and Tips for Torres del Paine:
- 19. 4. Estancia Cerro Guido at the Gates of Torres del Paine
- 20. More Info About the Estancia Cerro Guido
- 21. 5. El Calafate, Perito Moreno Glacier and Other Glaciers to Marvel At
- 22. Info on Glacier Tours:
- 23. Eating and Drinking
- 24. More Tips for El Calafate:
- 25. 6. El Chaltén: A Hiking Mecca with Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
- 26. 7. Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego National Park
- 27. Info on Ushuaia:
- 28. More Tips for Planning the Patagonia Trip
- 29. Recommendation for the Best Travel Guide
- 30. Tip: Guide for Self-Drivers
- 31. Hiking Guide for Patagonia
- 32. Accommodations in Patagonia
- 33. Food in Patagonia
- 34. Tips for Renting a Car in Patagonia
- 35. Border Crossing Chile - Argentina
- 36. SUV with All-Wheel Drive or is a Normal Car Sufficient?
- 37. Apply for an International Driver's License
- 38. Driving in Patagonia - What You Need to Know
- 39. Problem: Gas and Gas Stations!
- 40. Travel Time: When to Visit Patagonia?
- 41. Best Travel Time for Activities
- 42. Weather in Patagonia
- 43. Packing List for Patagonia
- 44. My Packing List for Hiking:
- 45. Costs
- 46. Conclusion
- 47. These Reports You Should Also Check Out:
Southern Patagonia Travel Report: 2 Weeks Road Trip with Highlights of Glaciers and Hiking
A trip to Patagonia has been on my bucket list for a long time. Finally, the time had come. As part of my 5-week journey through Chile and Argentina, we visited the "End of the World": Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. We crossed the border into Argentina and experienced one highlight after another on this Patagonia round trip.
Hiking the W-Trek in Torres del Paine National Park. A visit to the Perito Moreno Glacier and the hiking mecca El Chaltén with Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Additionally, a bus detour to Ushuaia with Tierra del Fuego National Park was on our itinerary.
Traveling independently in Patagonia by rental car? Highly feasible, especially during the Patagonian summer in November.
Note: If you prefer not to drive (or don't have a driver's license), I recommend G Adventures. Here you can find group tours with a sustainable aspect and support from local providers and guides.
How it works and what travel route we chose, you can find out in this travel report. We had exactly two weeks to explore southern Patagonia. Enough for the highlights, but much too little for this beautiful and rugged nature surrounding the southern ice field.
Rarely has a region impressed me as much as Patagonia. I am overwhelmed by the impressions. One of my most beautiful trips! Here I have published our travel report on the 2-week round trip in Patagonia. Route, information, tips, and recommendations for accommodations can be found in the article.
Enjoy the reading!
Why Patagonia?
Who doesn't know the pictures from Patagonia? Bright blue glaciers, snow-capped mountains, and endless landscapes?
They evoke a longing for adventure, nature, and solitude. Patagonia has a lot to offer, and for many, it is the most beautiful end of the world. However, one should not be disappointed if one is not alone at some of the ends. The harsh climate with the Patagonian winds and high prices ensure that crowds have so far stayed away.
Anyone who brings a bit of time will experience a landscape that leaves them speechless.
I have long had this beautiful and rugged landscape shared by Chile and Argentina on my 'must go' list.
In this article, I take you on a journey to the most beautiful glaciers and popular hikes between Punta Arenas and El Chaltén. Southern Patagonia at its best.
Travel Route: Southern Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
Travel to Punta Arenas via Santiago
Puerto Natales
Rio Serano (at the gates of Torres del Paine National Park)
Torres del Paine (W-Trek)
Estancia Cerro Guido (at the entrance of the national park)
El Calafate (Perito Moreno Glacier, Spegazzini, and Upsala glaciers)
El Chaltén (day hikes Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre)
Puerto Natales (transfer)
Punta Arenas.
If you have more time (like we did):
By bus to Ushuaia
5-day cruise through the fjords of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
Punta Arenas and return flight via Santiago to the USA
View the complete travel report with our Chile Argentina trip route
- Travel to Punta Arenas via Santiago
- Puerto Natales
- Rio Serano (at the gates of Torres del Paine National Park)
- Torres del Paine (W-Trek)
- Estancia Cerro Guido (at the entrance of the national park)
- El Calafate (Perito Moreno Glacier, Spegazzini, and Upsala glaciers)
- El Chaltén (day hikes Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre)
- Puerto Natales (transfer)
- Punta Arenas.
- If you have more time (like we did):
- By bus to Ushuaia
- 5-day cruise through the fjords of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
- Punta Arenas and return flight via Santiago to the USA
Chile Travel with Patagonia Route Map
Where is Patagonia?
Patagonia is a region in the south of South America that stretches across the countries of Argentina and Chile. It is also said that Patagonia is at the end of the world. This is true for Chile, but in Argentina, only Tierra del Fuego lies further south before Antarctica follows.
Getting to Patagonia
By Plane
Most tourists fly to Punta Arenas, as there are often bargains on flights. The best airline was JetSmart, a relatively new provider with modern aircraft. The airline is significantly cheaper than LATAM, and also punctual.
LATAM flies daily from Santiago, Coyhaique, and Puerto Montt, seemingly around the clock. Our onward flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas was canceled. This was frustrating because we had deliberately chosen an earlier and more expensive flight. In the end, we had to accept LATAM's rebooking to a later (night flight that was again delayed). Arrival: 3:30 AM. You can imagine how worn out and annoyed we were.
Sky offers direct flights to Puerto Natales in summer. Aerovías DAP exclusively flies within Patagonia between Punta Arenas, Poervenir, and Puerto Williams.
From Argentina, Aerolíneas Argentinas offers flights from Buenos Aires, El Calafate, and Ushuaia.
Tip: If you fly to Punta Arenas, definitely book a window seat on the left. On the flight from Punta Arenas to Santiago, make sure to sit on the right. Views of the Patagonian ice field with all its glaciers, mountain peaks, and Chile's volcanoes are guaranteed.
By Bus
The bus connections in Patagonia are excellent. Several times a day, buses run from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales (e.g., Buses Fernández). Buses Barrio also runs on Saturdays from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia.
You can get information best from the tourist information in Punta Arenas (Sernatur), as the internet didn't provide us with all the transfer price providers.
Here you can view an overview of all bus companies in Chile.
Hiking in Patagonia
In Patagonia, you will find first-class hiking opportunities. From short hikes to viewpoints to multi-day trekking routes, there's something for everyone.
We particularly enjoyed the region around El Chaltén in Los Glaciares National Park, at the edge of the southern ice field. Here, in addition to hiking, you can also enjoy climbing and mountaineering. The Torres del Paine National Park and Tierra del Fuego National Park also offer great options for single and multi-day hikes. The landscapes of Patagonia make the activities unforgettable!
For climbers, Cerro Torre near El Chaltén - one of the five hardest peaks in the world - is a highlight.
Highlights and Places Visited
1. Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas, with 125,000 inhabitants on the Strait of Magellan, is the southernmost city in the world. Once, wealth came from sheep farming and fishing; today, residents increasingly rely on tourism. Punta Arenas is the ideal place to start a Patagonia round trip.
There are a few highlights, but you don't necessarily have to see them. We used the stay to rest after a late-night flight. We bought supplies in the supermarket for the hikes and explored the city center on foot.
A place I would recommend is the penguin island Isla Magdalena. Here, around 250,000 Magellanic penguins live. We visited the island as part of our expedition cruise through the fjords of Patagonia.
Sightseeing in Punta Arenas
Around the Plaza de Armas, you will find beautiful city palaces of the former sheep barons. The best view of Punta Arenas, the Strait of Magellan, and Tierra del Fuego can be enjoyed from Cerro de la Cruz.
2. Puerto Natales
The small town is not beautiful but has its charm. I found it very cozy to stroll around the Plaza de Armas. Travelers can find everything they need here. Since the small airport has started operating, Puerto Natales is slowly shifting away from Punta Arenas as a starting point for Torres del Paine National Park.
Puerto Natales is often the last stop for many visitors before they head into the Torres del Paine National Park for multi-day hikes on the W-Trek or Circuit. Others use Puerto Natales as a starting point for day hikes in Torres del Paine and the surrounding area. Tours to Lago Grey with glaciers, waterfalls, and other great photo spots in the park are also popular.
If you're short on time, you can take a day tour to the Perito Moreno Glacier from here. I generally advise against that unless you're in a time crunch. The drive to El Calafate takes about 4 hours, which is quite long.
Restaurant Tips for Puerto Natales
Restaurant at Factoria Patagonia: Very delicious pasta and salads.
Cerveza Baguales: Microbrewery with a good selection of beer, burgers, Mexican food, and sandwiches.
Café: The Coffee Maker and El Living.
Restaurant at The Singular: Special recommendation from friends. Unfortunately, we didn't have time for that.
More recommendations from friends: Afrigonia (Taste of Africa in Patagonia), Congrejo Rojo, La Distilleria, and Base Camp (cheap pizza and beer).
- Restaurant at Factoria Patagonia: Very delicious pasta and salads.
- Cerveza Baguales: Microbrewery with a good selection of beer, burgers, Mexican food, and sandwiches.
- Café: The Coffee Maker and El Living.
- Restaurant at The Singular: Special recommendation from friends. Unfortunately, we didn't have time for that.
- More recommendations from friends: Afrigonia (Taste of Africa in Patagonia), Congrejo Rojo, La Distilleria, and Base Camp (cheap pizza and beer).
More Tips for Puerto Natales
At the tourist information, you can get stamps for the Torres del Paine National Park in your passport. We completely forgot about that.
Recommended duration of stay: 1 night at the beginning and 1 day after the trek in Torres del Paine or on the return from El Chaltén.
Accommodation in Puerto Natales: Factoria Patagonia Hostel. A new hostel with dorms and private rooms. Very cozy. The trattoria is highly recommended, and the breakfast is less so. They wouldn't even start the coffee maker for me for a fee and only offered Nescafe (no es cafe). No-Go. Good to know: You can leave your luggage at the hostel during hikes in the Torres del Paine NP.
Distance from Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales: 248 km, approx. 3 hours
Distance from Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine National Park: 80 km, approx. 2 hours
Distance from Puerto Natales - El Calafate: 355 km, approx. 3.5 - 4 hours. Note: Don't go through Tapi Like, but continue straight ahead via Esperanza. Advantage: Paved road and no horrible gravel road (we tested this on the way back. It takes longer and is annoying).
- At the tourist information, you can get stamps for the Torres del Paine National Park in your passport. We completely forgot about that.
- Recommended duration of stay: 1 night at the beginning and 1 day after the trek in Torres del Paine or on the return from El Chaltén.
- Accommodation in Puerto Natales: Factoria Patagonia Hostel. A new hostel with dorms and private rooms. Very cozy. The trattoria is highly recommended, and the breakfast is less so. They wouldn't even start the coffee maker for me for a fee and only offered Nescafe (no es cafe). No-Go. Good to know: You can leave your luggage at the hostel during hikes in the Torres del Paine NP.
- Distance from Punta Arenas - Puerto Natales: 248 km, approx. 3 hours
- Distance from Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine National Park: 80 km, approx. 2 hours
- Distance from Puerto Natales - El Calafate: 355 km, approx. 3.5 - 4 hours. Note: Don't go through Tapi Like, but continue straight ahead via Esperanza. Advantage: Paved road and no horrible gravel road (we tested this on the way back. It takes longer and is annoying).
3. Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine National Park is the most popular destination for hikers and nature lovers in Chile. Around 200,000 visitors come here every year, and the trend is rising.
Azure lakes, rugged mountains with distinctive peaks, and the impressive glaciers make the park so popular. Moreover, animals like guanacos, condors, rheas, and pumas call it home. Huemuls are rarely seen, similar to pumas.
The Great Things About the Park
Even inexperienced hikers can set off to hike one of the most popular treks on their own. The paths are so well marked that you can't get lost. Only the signs with distance indications vary greatly along the hiking trails.
You can choose between the W-Trek (4-5 days), Circuit (also O-Trek, 7-10 days), or day hikes that consist of parts of the aforementioned treks. Paine Grande - Valle Frances, Paine Grande - Refugio Grey, or the most popular leg to the Mirador Base de las Torres.
We completed the W-Trek in four days. However, we had to skip the section from Los Cuernos and Las Torres Hotel because there was no availability at either Campo Italiano or Los Cuernos Refugio.
There are also some worthy spots in the park that you will pass while entering or exiting.
- Lago Pehoe, the quintessential postcard image. Park on the roadside near the Hosteria Pehoe and marvel at Lago Pehoe and the mountain massif in the background.
- On the way to the entrance at Laguna Amara, you will pass several viewpoints. If the weather is good, you will have a great view of the granite towers Torres del Paine and Los Cuernos from them.
- On the way to Pudeto (this is where the catamaran departs for Paine Grande), you will drive a bit further and come to the Salto Grande waterfall. With luck, you may spot armadillos (penguins) here. We had bad luck with the weather and unfortunately saw none.
- At the Salto Grande waterfall, the path leads to a viewpoint 'Mirador Cuernos'. Unfortunately, our view was not completely free (we had a great view of Los Cuernos during our hike).
More Info and Tips for Torres del Paine:
There are three entrances to the park: Laguna Amara (where the buses arrive), Lago Sarmiento, and Laguna Azul.
You must check in and pay at the entrance.
The hikes are doable for everyone. Don't let time estimates irritate you; they are often sportily indicated. You want to enjoy hiking.
You can book huts and campsites directly with Vertice. It's best to do this six months in advance. The cheaper option is to camp in a self-brought tent.
More information on the Torres del Paine W-Trek can be found soon in a separate article.
- There are three entrances to the park: Laguna Amara (where the buses arrive), Lago Sarmiento, and Laguna Azul.
- You must check in and pay at the entrance.
- The hikes are doable for everyone. Don't let time estimates irritate you; they are often sportily indicated. You want to enjoy hiking.
- You can book huts and campsites directly with Vertice. It's best to do this six months in advance. The cheaper option is to camp in a self-brought tent.
4. Estancia Cerro Guido at the Gates of Torres del Paine
Do you want to spend the night on a historic (sheep) farm with gauchos? The Estancia Cerro Guido is just that. The sheep farm is located right at the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park.
For those of us who, like us, were unlucky with accommodations around Las Torres Hotel, this could be a lucky find. We spent two nights here in the restored estate.
After the W-Trek and before the last leg to the Mirador Base de las Torres. This way, we were able to enter the park early in the morning before the buses to hike to the Base de las Torres.
On another day, we explored the farm with the sheep sheds, and then went hiking on the land of the Estancia Cerro Guido.
During a hike on a table mountain to the Mirador Cóndores, we were able to spot a condor. In addition, you get great views of Sarmiento Lake and the Torres del Paine massif.
Yes, you will also find great hiking trails just outside the Torres del Paine National Park!
More Info About the Estancia Cerro Guido
The Estancia consists of historic buildings over 100 years old. The rooms are housed inside them. Even the furnishings are historical and give the accommodation a special charm.
The new, modern restaurant offers fine dining with a wonderful view of Torres del Paine.
The accommodation is only recommended if you're traveling with your own rental car.
Book directly through the Estancia's website
Recommended duration of stay: 2 nights
- The Estancia consists of historic buildings over 100 years old. The rooms are housed inside them. Even the furnishings are historical and give the accommodation a special charm.
- The new, modern restaurant offers fine dining with a wonderful view of Torres del Paine.
- The accommodation is only recommended if you're traveling with your own rental car.
- Book directly through the Estancia's website
- Recommended duration of stay: 2 nights
5. El Calafate, Perito Moreno Glacier and Other Glaciers to Marvel At
El Calafate is a tourist town in the province of Santa Cruz (Argentina). The town is located at the southern edge of Los Glaciares National Park. Here lie the largest glaciers outside the polar regions. Highlights include the Perito Moreno Glacier, the Upsala Glacier, and the Spegazzini Glacier.
You can explore the Perito Moreno Glacier on visitor walkways and get very close to the calving front. Alternatively, take a boat tour or, like us, a hike with crampons on the glacier.
The Perito Moreno Glacier is the absolute highlight of the region. No wonder it is one of the few glaciers that is not melting away. It more or less maintains its equilibrium.
Most tourists stay for just one day; we spent three in tourism-driven El Calafate. One day we rested and did laundry. On another day, we devoted to another boat tour. Here, we visited the Upsala Glacier, one of the largest but also most active glaciers in the world. The glacier front is up to 10 km wide.
We then continued through the Spegazzini Canal to the glaciers Heim Norte, Seco, Heim Sur, Peineta, and Spegazzini.
The Spegazzini is the glacier with the highest calving front (around 130 m, thus twice as high as at Perito Moreno). Every now and then, a little ice breaks off. The boats look like toys.
Info on Glacier Tours:
Entry to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares: 600 ARS per day/person.
The mini-trekking takes you 1.5 hours on the ice, costs: 3600 ARS without and 4500 ARS with Shuttle.
The Big Ice Hike leads you 3.5 hours onto the ice. It takes place in smaller groups and should therefore be booked at least 5 days in advance via the website of Hielo y Aventura. Costs: 6900 ARS without and 7900 ARS with Shuttle.
Gloves are compulsory, sneakers or trekking shoes are recommended. I advise trekking shoes, as there are puddles to avoid getting wet feet. Depending on the weather code look.
The boat tour 'Rios de Hielo' to the glaciers was booked with Solo Patagonia. The tour lasts about 5 hours and costs 2,700 ARS.
- Entry to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares: 600 ARS per day/person.
- The mini-trekking takes you 1.5 hours on the ice, costs: 3600 ARS without and 4500 ARS with Shuttle.
- The Big Ice Hike leads you 3.5 hours onto the ice. It takes place in smaller groups and should therefore be booked at least 5 days in advance via the website of Hielo y Aventura. Costs: 6900 ARS without and 7900 ARS with Shuttle.
- Gloves are compulsory, sneakers or trekking shoes are recommended. I advise trekking shoes, as there are puddles to avoid getting wet feet. Depending on the weather code look.
- The boat tour 'Rios de Hielo' to the glaciers was booked with Solo Patagonia. The tour lasts about 5 hours and costs 2,700 ARS.
Eating and Drinking
The restaurants in El Calafate don't, in my opinion, match the quality of those in other places.
- Don Pichon. Note: The portions are huge.
- La Lechuza. Pizza and Pasta.
- La Cocina. Pizza and Pasta.
- We had very good food (pasta) at Hostel America Del Sur
More Tips for El Calafate:
Accommodation in El Calafate: The Hostel America Del Sur Calafate features great photos, but I wouldn't describe the mattresses as mattresses. Breakfast is very basic and often not refilled, even though it is still available for 1 hour. Next trip I'd choose a different accommodation.
Recommended duration of stay: 2-3 nights
Distance from El Calafate - El Chaltén: 213 km, duration about 2.5 - 3 hours
Distance from El Calafate - Puerto Natales: 355 km, duration about 4 - 4.5 hours
A detailed article about El Calafate and region will follow soon.
- Accommodation in El Calafate: The Hostel America Del Sur Calafate features great photos, but I wouldn't describe the mattresses as mattresses. Breakfast is very basic and often not refilled, even though it is still available for 1 hour. Next trip I'd choose a different accommodation.
- Recommended duration of stay: 2-3 nights
- Distance from El Calafate - El Chaltén: 213 km, duration about 2.5 - 3 hours
- Distance from El Calafate - Puerto Natales: 355 km, duration about 4 - 4.5 hours
6. El Chaltén: A Hiking Mecca with Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
El Chaltén was founded only in 1985, making it Argentina's youngest small town. The place is known as a mecca for hiking, climbing, and mountaineering. With Cerro Torre located nearby, one of the five hardest peaks in the world is at your doorstep.
In general, the Fitz Roy Massif is impressive, assuming clouds don't obscure the view. You can see it from a distance as you drive the straight road toward El Chaltén. Gigantic!
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre are some of the most beautiful peaks in Argentina. The hikes at their feet are stunning. For me, they are the most beautiful in Patagonia.
El Chaltén is located in Los Glaciares National Park. Unlike the highlights around El Calafate, you don't have to pay an entrance fee for hikes here.
Here you can find a detailed travel report on hiking in El Chaltén.
7. Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego National Park
Some say it's the end of the world (which is not true, as Cape Horn is further south), others say it's the beginning. One thing is clear: this region is incredibly beautiful, so strangely beautiful!
Ushuaia, the city itself is not particularly beautiful but exudes a certain charm. No wonder, as this is where most ships heading for Antarctica depart.
Everywhere we find postings of enticing last-minute offers... phew!
But even around Ushuaia, it's worth planning a few days. Unfortunately, we only had this one day, which we used to visit Tierra del Fuego National Park and the 'attraction', the southernmost post office in the world.
The national park is bordered by the Beagle Channel and consists of glaciers, waterfalls, beaches, rainforest, lakes, and grasslands.
Once again, we had good luck with the weather: sunny and summery 18 degrees. So, we didn't hesitate and took one of the shuttles from Ushuaia to the 18 km distant Tierra del Fuego National Park.
We hike along the Senda Costera (8 km) along the Beagle Channel. At the beginning, there is the southernmost post office in the world. Of course, we let them stamp our passport for a small fee.
During the hike, we pass many bays and get opportunities to catch glimpses of the glaciers in the distance.
We visit the end of Route 3 - the end of the last paved road in the world. It was a surprisingly beautiful day for me. I hadn't imagined this little spot to be so lovely.
Ushuaia, I will return! Here you can read about our highlights in Ushuaia with tips.
Info on Ushuaia:
Recommended duration of stay: 3 nights
Stay at: Hostería Pension Jarke
Distance from El Calafate - Ushuaia: 914 km (here it is worth flying)
Distance from Punta Arenas - Ushuaia: 629 km.
By bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia in about 9 hours with Buses Barria.
Tip: How about an expedition cruise to Cape Horn and through the fjords of Patagonia to Punta Arenas?
- Recommended duration of stay: 3 nights
- Stay at: Hostería Pension Jarke
- Distance from El Calafate - Ushuaia: 914 km (here it is worth flying)
- Distance from Punta Arenas - Ushuaia: 629 km.
- By bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia in about 9 hours with Buses Barria.
- Tip: How about an expedition cruise to Cape Horn and through the fjords of Patagonia to Punta Arenas?
More Tips for Planning the Patagonia Trip
Traveling around Patagonia independently is easy. The infrastructure is good. If you're not traveling by rental car, you can comfortably explore from A to B using luxurious buses.
However, Patagonia is enormous. Don't underestimate distances. For longer distances, domestic flights are worthwhile; shorter distances can be easily covered by bus.
Recommendation for the Best Travel Guide
Finding a suitable guide for Chile and Argentina and recommending it is not easy. We had the travel guide for Chile and the travel guide for Argentina from Dumont Verlag.
Neither hikes nor transfers were described. Everything was 'vague' and superficial.
Tip: Guide for Self-Drivers
The best guide I found only after the trip: Fodor's Travel Chile and Fodor's Travel Argentina. The travel guide is in English, very detailed, with many tips, especially distances and travel times. For self-drivers, the best Chile travel guide.
Hiking Guide for Patagonia
For hikes, we should have bought the Rother Hiking Guide for Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego in advance. Then we would have known the distances, descriptions, and elevation profiles. This handy book features 50 tours. Absolutely a buy recommendation!
Accommodations in Patagonia
Traveling independently allows you to decide where you want to stay. With fixed tours, you do not have that choice.
There are accommodations available for every budget. The best value accommodations are often booked out long in advance. Therefore, I recommend: Book early.
We reserved accommodations about three weeks before departure to Chile (much too late). This meant that we sometimes had to rely on expensive options.
We always check booking.com or Tripadvisor for availability. For us, the photos are always important; on Tripadvisor, also the reviews. These are often to be discounted on booking.com as they are often 'not real' - almost bought.
Accommodations in Torres del Paine should be booked at least 6 months in advance. The provider Vertice helped us with this. They book and plan all the refugios or campsites along the W-Trek (also Circuit) for you. Even if some of the spots are owned by the second provider, Fantastico Sur, Vertice takes care of the planning.
Food in Patagonia
Eating in Chile and Argentina is a peculiar thing. If you hike a lot, you get hungry, right? Breakfast often consists of white bread with jam, honey, or tasteless cheese.
There is instant coffee, which has jokingly been referred to as 'No es Cafe' (Nescafé, 'that's not coffee'). Hot water and tea are always available.
You will find good pizza and pasta everywhere, especially in Argentina.
For meat lovers, 'Asado' (grilled meat) is the highlight. Grilling is everywhere, especially lamb and beef.
Salads are often in short supply. In Punta Arenas, we partially took care of ourselves.
For the multi-day hike in Torres del Paine, we bought granola bars and nuts. We always booked the snack box in the accommodations. Not a culinary highlight, but better than to haul food for four days.
Water can always be refilled at mountain rivers (but always uphill before a campsite, not after).
The price-performance ratio was okay. We had imagined it to be much more expensive from what we heard.
- Eating in Chile and Argentina is a peculiar thing. If you hike a lot, you get hungry, right? Breakfast often consists of white bread with jam, honey, or tasteless cheese.
- There is instant coffee, which has jokingly been referred to as 'No es Cafe' (Nescafé, 'that's not coffee'). Hot water and tea are always available.
- You will find good pizza and pasta everywhere, especially in Argentina.
- For meat lovers, 'Asado' (grilled meat) is the highlight. Grilling is everywhere, especially lamb and beef.
- Salads are often in short supply. In Punta Arenas, we partially took care of ourselves.
- For the multi-day hike in Torres del Paine, we bought granola bars and nuts. We always booked the snack box in the accommodations. Not a culinary highlight, but better than to haul food for four days.
- Water can always be refilled at mountain rivers (but always uphill before a campsite, not after).
- The price-performance ratio was okay. We had imagined it to be much more expensive from what we heard.
Tips for Renting a Car in Patagonia
A road trip by car through Patagonia? Definitely! Driving in the southern region of Chile and Argentina is fun. Only with your own car can you enjoy maximum flexibility and freedom! We spent two weeks driving as self-drivers in Patagonia, covering over 2000 km.
Note: Of course, you can also explore Patagonia by bus. This is more comfortable and convenient. However, you are not flexible. In Torres del Paine National Park, you are bound by bus schedules. In El Calafate, you must book transfers to the Perito Moreno.
The road network is decent; roads through the pampa can be straight and sometimes a bit boring. Rates for rental cars are not cheap, so it's worth comparing.
My tip is Sunny Cars or Billiger Mietwagen. I compare prices and availability. It's best to book the car before your trip from Germany. This way, you have a German-speaking contact person for inquiries or in case of damage, as very few staff speak English at car rental services in Chile and Argentina.
For the road trip, we booked a "budget" SUV with all-wheel drive and a free additional driver, including all important insurances through Sunny Cars. Still, it is worthwhile to always compare prices.
From Kathrin (Fräulein Draußen), we received a tip that SUVs are significantly cheaper with Europcar than with other providers. Unfortunately, we were too late.
Keep in mind that there is a one-way rental fee if you rent the car at one location and return it to another. We booked the rental car from/to Punta Arenas.
Border Crossing Chile - Argentina
The border between Chile and Argentina is still strictly guarded. Crossing it does not pose many difficulties, apart from having to pull out your passport and wait in line to get the stamp. Make sure you have enough free pages, which almost went wrong for me in the end. The passport was full after the trip.
Crossing the border by car is also quite simple. For the border crossing into Argentina, you need a permit (in Spanish: "Permiso Argentino") for your rental car, which you must apply for separately from the car rental company before your trip. We informed Sunny Cars. However, Hertz (through which the car ultimately came) mismanaged our request. Once we had the confirmation a few days before departure, everything was sorted out.
Chilean customs officers are extremely strict when it comes to bringing food into the country (we quickly ate our apples), especially compared to their Argentine counterparts. Always declare food (they are usually flexible once items are declared); otherwise, a hefty fine awaits.
Most travelers cross the border by bus, meaning you have to get out of the vehicle for 30-45 minutes to go through bureaucratic procedures and then get back in.
SUV with All-Wheel Drive or is a Normal Car Sufficient?
In general, most roads are paved. However, the 'tracks' in and around Torres del Paine NP are often gravel roads in somewhat poor condition. All roads are passable, but we prefer to travel comfortably. We have been on unpaved roads, which the rental car provider officially allows only with SUVs.
If anything happens on an unpaved road with a normal passenger car, the renter is not liable.
Even if a SUV with a border crossing is not a bargain, we would do it the same way again.
Apply for an International Driver's License
If you travel a lot, it's worth having an International Driver's License. Mine cost 16 euros. The process takes only 10 minutes. The International Driver's License is valid for three years.
At the car rental, I had to present the International Driver's License along with my driver's license and passport.
Driving in Patagonia - What You Need to Know
Driving in Patagonia is actually simple. You drive on the right like we do. There are no special rules you need to observe.
Make sure you have at least one spare tire with you. Pack snacks and enough water. Some routes take you through the empty pampa. No gas station, no place, and no toilet.
Don't drive faster than 80 km/h on gravel roads.
Problem: Gas and Gas Stations!
Gas stations are rare, especially around Torres del Paine National Park, El Calafate, and El Chaltén. If there is one, you shouldn't rely on it actually having gas.
On the way from El Calafate, we were advised to refuel in Estancia and not in Tapi Aike. The latter rarely has gas or is open at all. With the last drops, we rolled into Estancia's gas station. Conclusion: No gas. When will the next tanker come? No idea. We were lucky because the long overdue tanker came around the corner just 10 minutes later.
Also, in El Calafate, there were times when gas was out at a station. Fortunately, the town has several, and we could fill up. In El Chaltén, where the smallest gas station is located, there was gas every day of our stay.
Refuel at every opportunity. Even better, it's advised to borrow a gas canister from the rental car company. We would do this on the next trip.
Travel Time: When to Visit Patagonia?
Every season has something special in Patagonia. The end of September to March - spring and summer in the southern hemisphere - is peak season in Patagonia. Reservations are recommended in northern Patagonia, especially in September and October, and from December to February in southern Patagonia. Although the summer sun can be strong, the winds blow throughout the year, so always bring extra layers including a windbreaker, rain jacket, and thin down jacket.
In northern (also called Atlantic) Patagonia, many facilities close in April and May. Whale watchers arrive in June and July. While most of southern Patagonia almost comes to a standstill from May to September, the ski season in Ushuaia is becoming increasingly popular.
We were only in the southern part of Patagonia. In December and January, the skies are clearer, the climate is more pleasant, and the number of sunshine hours is higher, although locals told us the weather in November, March, and April is more stable than in December to February (absolute peak travel time).
From December to February, you must book accommodations (especially in Torres del Paine for W-Trek and Circuit) long in advance.
We visited Patagonia in November for hiking. The weather was extremely genial except for 1-2 days: bright blue skies and summery temperatures. Hardly any fog and always a clear view of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre (El Chaltén), as well as often on the Torres in Torres del Paine National Park. We recommend traveling to Patagonia in November. For us, the best travel time.
In winter (June to August), it snows. Many regions (including accommodations, campsites, and hiking trails in Torres del Paine National Park) are closed or blocked. Then Patagonia is almost free of tourists.
In spring (September - November) and autumn (March to May), the weather is often mild. But even then, temperatures can fall below freezing. The blooming flowers make spring particularly beautiful.
Best Travel Time for Activities
Do you want to hike, observe wildlife, or kayak? Then the period from November to April is the best time for a visit.
The ski resorts are open from July to August for skiing. In this short travel time, people from all over the world come to Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Chilean friends say the conditions are fantastic.
The main ski resorts are Cerro Catedral (Bariloche), Cerro Perito Moreno (El Bolson), and Cerro Castor (Ushuaia).
Weather in Patagonia
In Patagonia, a rough and rapidly changing climate prevails. Prepare for all seasons in a single day. Locals say that October, November, March, and April are generally cooler, but more stable than December to February. Even in summer, it can snow and be very cold.
Dress in layers. The onion look is the order of the day. Strong winds of over 90 km/h are almost customary. The closer you get to the Patagonian ice field and glaciers, the colder it will get.
Packing List for Patagonia
For Chile and Argentina, I have never been so happy to have suitable and good outdoor clothing. Sooner or later at the first hike and quick climate changes from snow to summer temperatures, you'll realize if your gear measures up.
Onion look: When packing, make sure to layer. Rain jackets and pants are essential as well as a down jacket for hiking, hat, gloves, and sunglasses. Additionally, a softshell jacket or fleece. On some days, long underwear (merino) or warm leggings are suitable. For hiking, I also only use merino socks.
Always take enough water with you (best in a Camelbak) and bring your water bottles from home. You can refill them at the icy but crystal-clear mountain streams.
For hikes, we always carry small snacks: granola bars, nuts, apples, bananas.
Also pay attention to comfortable backpacks with a good carrying system. Especially on multi-day hikes, it's indispensable. Your back will thank you. I swear by the Hike Pack 27 Lite and Yukon backpack (50 + 10 liters) from Tatonka.
My Packing List for Hiking:
Good backpack from Tatonka, currently the Hike Pack 27 liters
Drinking system 1.5 liters for water, compatible with the backpack
Tatonka bags for clothing
Waterproof bag for technology and hygiene items
Underwear from Icebreaker (merino)
Merino socks from Falke and Icebreaker (1 pair for hiking, 1 for changing at night)
1 pair of zip-off pants and 1 legging
1 merino functional underwear legging
1 short functional shirt for hiking, 1 shirt for sleeping
1 long-sleeve shirt (merino) for hiking
1 thin sweater (merino) for the evening
1 softshell jacket
1 thin down jacket
1 wind/rain jacket
Hat and softshell gloves
Hygiene items (toothbrush, toothpaste, cream, small deodorant, soap, small brush)
Camera, lenses, spare batteries, and chargers
- Good backpack from Tatonka, currently the Hike Pack 27 liters
- Drinking system 1.5 liters for water, compatible with the backpack
- Tatonka bags for clothing
- Waterproof bag for technology and hygiene items
- Underwear from Icebreaker (merino)
- Merino socks from Falke and Icebreaker (1 pair for hiking, 1 for changing at night)
- 1 pair of zip-off pants and 1 legging
- 1 merino functional underwear legging
- 1 short functional shirt for hiking, 1 shirt for sleeping
- 1 long-sleeve shirt (merino) for hiking
- 1 thin sweater (merino) for the evening
- 1 softshell jacket
- 1 thin down jacket
- 1 wind/rain jacket
- Hat and softshell gloves
- Hygiene items (toothbrush, toothpaste, cream, small deodorant, soap, small brush)
- Camera, lenses, spare batteries, and chargers
- Travel journal for writing notes and memories
Costs
One thing to note: Patagonia is expensive. You can travel on a low budget, but that's not our style. You can save by only staying at campsites in Torres del Paine and sleeping in your own tent.
Traveling by bus is also cheaper than driving a rental car. We love freedom; that's why we had a rental car only for Patagonia.
The costs for the permit to cross the border from Chile to Argentina depend on the duration of the stay.
Flights to Patagonia are often expensive if you fly during the day. Flights operate around the clock, and the later in the night, the cheaper.
The expenses per person for 14 days in Patagonia are approximately 3,500 - 4,000 euros.
That's not cheap. Certainly, you can save money by booking your flight to Punta Arenas earlier than we did. Or you could camp on the W-Trek.
Instead of the Rio Serano hotel or Estancia Cerro Guido, there are cheaper alternatives at the park entrances to Torres del Paine (or you could stay in Puerto Natales and take a 2-hour journey to the park entrance). If we hadn't started searching for accommodations just one month before the trip, lighter options would have still been available. This all serves as a guide for you and is provided for orientation.
- Costs for rental car (SUV) with insurances: 1,462.00 euros for 2 weeks
- Costs for border crossing: 150 USD
- Flight from Calama (Atacama via Santiago to Punta Arenas): 498 euros
- Flight Punta Arenas - Santiago: 50 euros
- Bus Punta Arenas - Ushuaia (Buses Barria): about 46 euros (35,000 CLP)
- Accommodations: about 800 euros (Cerro Guido with meals)
- Torres del Paine W-Trek with Vertice (5 days, including accommodation and food): 875 euros (as of 2019)
- Park entrance fees: 55 euros
- Other expenses (food, souvenirs, ...): 350 euros
- Tours see respective day
Conclusion
The Patagonia region is one of the most beautiful on Earth for me. Never have I been so impressed by a travel destination. Every time I thought it couldn't get better and more beautiful, it did. An overload of emotions, wonderful landscapes, and these incredible glaciers.
Every outdoor lover should definitely consider a trip to Patagonia for their next travel destination. I want to go back.
These Reports You Should Also Check Out:
Overview of all Chile travel reports on my blog
Overview of all Argentina travel reports on my blog
Chile travel tips - everything you need to know for travel planning
Travel report: Traveling individually through Chile and Argentina
My Tatonka Trekkin' Crew Story of the Patagonia trip for Tatonka
All reports by Susi (Black Dots White Spots) of our trip
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- Overview of all Chile travel reports on my blog
- Overview of all Argentina travel reports on my blog
- Chile travel tips - everything you need to know for travel planning
- Travel report: Traveling individually through Chile and Argentina
- My Tatonka Trekkin' Crew Story of the Patagonia trip for Tatonka
- All reports by Susi (Black Dots White Spots) of our trip