Ligurian Road Trip: Sights & Highlights from My 1-Week Journey

Here you will find everything about my road trip with the camper to Liguria. The most beautiful places and sights along the Ligurian coast in Italy. My highlights from the 1-week tour with the camper. Have fun!

Italy is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful countries in Europe - and rightly so, as there are countless UNESCO World Heritage sites, beautiful beaches and mountains, idyllic lakes, and of course delicious culinary delights like pizza, pasta, fish, wine, and more at every corner.

I, too, have fallen for the charm of Bella Italia, but I have mostly been drawn to Tuscany or even further south to Rome and Naples.

However, this year I ended up in Liguria, and I must say: The region certainly does not have to hide from other hotspots and has so much to offer!

In the following article, I will reveal what you absolutely must not miss and how you can pack the most beautiful sights of Liguria into an exciting 7-day tour!

Sights in Liguria

What must you absolutely see along the Ligurian coast?

These are the top sights in Liguria that you shouldn't miss:

the mountain villages of Apricale and Dolceaqua
the abandoned village of Bussana Vecchio
the noble Portofino
And yes, of course, the Cinque Terre National Park must not be missed

When is the best time to travel to Liguria?

As the best travel time for Liguria, I recommend spring and autumn. In spring, the months of April and May are especially suitable. In autumn, I recommend September and October. During these months, the temperatures are summery but not too warm. In summer (July and August), it's vacation time and popular places are mercilessly overcrowded. Avoid these months, even though they are considered ideal travel times.

General Information about Liguria

Liguria - where exactly is it located? Most people can't make much of the name of the region. However, at the mention of the Cinque Terre National Park, the first bells start ringing. Wait a minute, weren't those those colorful villages on the coast...

Exactly. The nearly 38km large national park surrounding the five colorful coastal villages is probably the most famous destination in Liguria.

The region is located in northern Italy and borders France to the west, Tuscany to the east, and the regions of Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna to the north. And to the south? There lies the Mediterranean Sea, along with a 300 km² long, idyllic coastline.

The capital, Genoa, is located relatively in the middle of Liguria - from there you can head east towards Cinque Terre and La Spezia or westward to the Flower Riviera and San Remo. In the hinterland, you will find the Ligurian Alps and part of the Apennine mountain range.

Liguria is a region with many facets, and just as varied are the possibilities of what to do there or which sights to see.

Below, you'll get an initial overview:

Recommended Additions to Your Liguria Road Trip

Depending on how much time you have for your road trip through Liguria, this list can be expanded infinitely.

Capital of the region: Genoa. Long regarded as an ugly working-class city, the narrow alleys of the old town and the famous aquarium offer considerable tourist appeal.
A hike on Monte Galero in the hinterland of Albenga - you will be rewarded with a wonderful panoramic view here!
If you have plenty of time, you can also take a detour to nearby Monaco or the Côte d'Azur or plan a trip to the marble region of Massa and Carrara.

Recommended Route through Liguria

Regardless of where you come from in the United States and whether you arrive by car, camper, or plane, your journey will likely first lead you to Genoa.

From here, you can first orient yourself westward and start your journey along the famous Flower Riviera up to San Remo. After a short detour into the mountains from San Remo, you will then work your way back up the coast to Genoa, ultimately taking in some of Liguria's classic sights just east of the well-known port city.

All the described roads are easily manageable with a camper - even if it might feel a bit unfamiliar at first to navigate the sometimes very narrow mountain roads and the bustling city traffic of Italy.

Here's an overview of a possible route:

Day 1: Genoa - San Remo - Dolceaqua & Apricale
Day 2: Perinaldo - Bussana Vecchio
Day 3: Imperia - Mendatica - Waterfall Arroscia
Day 4: Borgio Verezzi - Noli
Day 5: Varazze - Portofino
Day 6: Cinque Terre
Day 7: Cinque Terre - Tellaro

I always slept in nature on this route - if you have an open view, you can always find a place that is suitable for it. I had no problems with that - however, I am also very humble while traveling. Whoever sets up the awning and furnishes themselves with tables and chairs outside should not be surprised if they are checked and reminded that wild camping is not allowed.

If you choose to camp in the wild, please be respectful to the locals and nature and leave all places as you find them - ideally even a little cleaner. If you decide against wild camping, you will find numerous campgrounds along the coast and in the mountains, as well as Airbnbs and hotels to choose from. However: wild camping is actually not allowed in Italy! Expect high fines if you are caught. Here you will find everything you need to know if you are traveling by camper to Italy.

Travel Report of Liguria Road Trip

Below you will find a detailed travel report of my round trip through Liguria. Since I traveled with a camper, I always tried to stay as far away from large cities as possible and spend more time in nature.

Day 1: Genoa - San Remo - Apricale & Dolceaqua

The drive from Genoa to San Remo takes 2 hours along the highway. While it is a toll road, the highway in this region is truly a little sight in itself, as it passes over numerous bridges and viaducts and runs most of the way above the ground. Although there are many tunnels on the route, you are still regularly offered a beautiful view of the coast and the small mountain villages.

Tip:

I would recommend using the highway when heading south - this way, you save time and can use the scenic coastal road (Via Aurelia) when driving back up towards Genoa. Also from a photographic point of view, this is advisable as you won't have the oncoming traffic in your photos, when you (or hopefully your passenger) take pictures while driving.

San Remo is often described as a beautiful and noteworthy city, but personally, I don't feel much for it. Yes, the promenade with the distinctive flowers, for which San Remo is famous, is quite nice to look at, yet I quickly leave the hustle and bustle behind and continue along the coastal road towards France until Bordighera. Here, I turn onto small roads that take me up into the mountains. Just 25km separate San Remo from Dolceaqua, yet one feels as if one is entering an entirely different world.

Sights of Dolceaqua:

Castello dei Doria: towers high above the city. It was first mentioned in 1177 and can be visited.
March - October: 10-1:30 PM and 2:30-6 PM, last entry 30 minutes before closing
October - March: 10-5 PM, closed on Mondays
More information: www.visitdolceaqua.it/castello-dei-doria-dolceacqua
Ponte Vecchio di Dolceaqua: built in the 13th century, it spans the Nervia River with a single arch. Claude Monet found inspiration for his painting in this bridge.
The entire old town with its narrow alleys is definitely worth seeing.

You just need to continually drive up the mountain for another 5km, and you will already be in Apricale, the next medieval town. It belongs to the association 'Borghio più belli d'Italia,' which summarizes the most beautiful places in Italy.

Sights of Apricale:

The center of the village is the square Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II. Here you will find the feudal castle, the San Bartolomeo Oratory, and the church (which interestingly features a bicycle on its bell tower)
While strolling through the medieval alleys, you will find many stone arcades and wall paintings by various artists
The walk can also be extended to include the surrounding olive groves if you want to move a bit more.

Tip: If you spend the night in Apricale, the even higher village of Perinaldo offers an excellent photo opportunity in the evening.

Day 2: Perinaldo - Bussana Vecchio

If you are already checking out medieval places, Perinaldo should not be missed either. It is the highest of the three villages at 572m. You reach it after a short drive on narrow, winding roads.

Overview of Perinaldo:

Since two Italian astronomers were born here, much revolves around the sky and the stars in the village. There is an astronomical observatory and a planetarium.
Cassini Museum: documents the life and work of the astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini
The streets of the village are decorated with photos of locals from olden days.

Tip: Especially the streets around the bar 'DiVino' particularly captured my heart, as several paintings have been hung on the stone walls, creating a great atmosphere along with the right interplay of light. The perfect stop for a small snack or a glass of wine.

From Perinaldo, you can either stay on the mountain roads and head towards Bussana Vecchio via San Romolo, or you can take the alternative route on wider roads: for that, you drive back the same route you came from towards Bordighera and follow the coastal road northwards up to Bussana.

Typical for Italy, the old towns are often located high in the mountains, while modern life has developed at the foot of the mountain. Hence, Bussana now has a modern town center along the coast but still carries its old medieval origin at the mountain peak.

Knowledge and Points of Interest for Bussana Vecchio

Bussana Vecchio was heavily destroyed by an earthquake in 1851, causing about 2000 residents to lose their lives. The village was then rebuilt in the valley, and the remains were left to their own devices until a few decades ago when a hippie community settled in old Bussana Vecchio with the mission of saving the place from decay.
Today, Bussana Vecchio is known as an artist village - in almost every existing house, there are small shops with real unique pieces. It's interesting to take a look behind the walls and gain an impression of life here
The half-ruined village is truly beautiful to look at and provides great photographic opportunities, especially up by the impressive church. While I stand there, enjoying the view, I hear a faint splash and a glance to my left shoulder reveals that even up here in the mountains, there are seagulls taking a break from the sea. So be wary of the seagulls

Tips:

The village is car-free. There is the possibility to drive to the nearby cemetery and park there, but spots are limited. I parked in a supermarket parking lot in Bussana and hiked up.
Right at the entrance of the village, there is a cozy café (Piazetta Golosa) that offers excellent homemade cakes.

Day 3: Imperia - Mendatica - Waterfall Arroscia

From Bussana, you continue along the coastal road to Imperia. The city will immediately catch your attention with its distinctive cathedral, which shapes the city's profile. The best place to park is at the harbor, and from there you can stroll past numerous yachts up to the cathedral.

In my opinion, you have already seen the most important things of the old fishing town, so you can quite quickly embark on the journey into the mountains. Although it's only about 40km to Mendatica, driving on the narrow, winding mountain roads makes it only feasible to travel at a leisurely pace.

Tip: The small town of Pieve de Teco is a great place for a photo stop and to stretch your legs, as here you can see a beautiful old stone bridge.

In Mendatica, you can park at a public square below the church. To start the hike, you only need to walk a little back down the road and you will immediately discover the first hiking signs.

Plan good 60-90 minutes per way for the hike to the Waterfall Arroscia (Cascate Arroscia). It's about 300 meters in elevation, but the paths are well-marked, and at the waterfall, there is a bench that is perfect for a well-deserved picnic.

Do you have more time? Recommended Addition:

If you have longer, you can stay in the mountains and continue to Garessio. Along the way, you will pass some fortifications near Balma del Messere. Garessio is the perfect starting point for hikes in the area.
Recommended tour: the 1708 m high Monte Galero is the highest peak in the province of Savona. Plan at least 5 hours for the round trip, as you will need to cover 750 meters in elevation. Along the way, you will be rewarded with magnificent views of the Ligurian mountains.
Via Castelvecchio, you return to the coast. You will encounter numerous castles and ruins along the way.

Day 4: Borgio Verezzi - Noli

From Mendatica, you take the same route back to Imperia and then continue along the Via Aurelia towards Genoa. The coastal section around Pietra Ligure is especially beautiful and rocky, so keep your camera ready. In Borgio Verezzi, you can simply follow the signs and come directly to the caves.

Grotte di Borgio Verezzi:

The caves were discovered only in 1933 and are known as the most colorful caves in Italy due to various minerals
Along 800m of the path, there are various stalactites, columns, and stalagmites to admire
Price for entry and guided tour is €9 per adult, with several tours (about 40 minutes) offered daily
Exact times at www.grottediborgio.it

Unfortunately, the caves were closed during my visit due to COVID-19, but I would definitely recommend them as they are truly beautiful and I have heard a lot of positive feedback about them.

From the caves, it's not far to Noli. Here, you can almost feel a bit of Chinese charm in Italy, not because of cheap souvenirs and kitsch, but because of the city wall, which vaguely resembles the Great Wall of China.

Sights of Noli:

Noli also belongs to the 'borghi più belli d'Italia,' the most beautiful places in Italy
The town's fortress dates back to the 8th century. Three city gates/towers remain, which were meant to protect the town from Saracen raids.
The castle ruin Monte Ursino above the village can be easily reached on foot. Along the way, you are offered great views down onto Noli.
The church S. Paragorio from the 11th century impresses with a painted crucifix.
The entire medieval town center is very well preserved and invites a stroll.

Day 5: Varazze - Portofino

From Noli, you again follow the Via Aurelia. Along the way, you will pass Savona, which I find to be a rather ugly city that stretches on for a long time. It's more worthwhile to make a short stop in Varazze here. There you will find a nice harbor and a long promenade where you can easily take a quick dip.

From Varazze, continue to Genoa - if you would like to check out the port city, feel free to do so, but I personally find it not particularly noteworthy, so I would recommend saving time for Portofino instead.

Tip: Portofino is car-free. You can park in Santa Margherita and take a bus (about €3) to Portofino or hike along the winding road for about an hour while enjoying breathtaking views of the coast and the elegant houses. From Paraggia, you also have the option to switch to the newly created path 'Passegiate dei Baci.' I can highly recommend the hike!

Sights in Portofino:

Castello Brown: located above Portofino, winding roads lead up to the castle. The castle itself doesn't offer much inside, but the view from the garden down into Portofino simply takes my breath away. It's definitely worth the €5 entrance fee!
Chiesa di San Giorgio: also located elevated on a mountain. It contains the relics of Saint George.
Hiking trail 'Passegiate dei Baci,' the path of kisses. This is likely a reference to the nearby well-known hiking trail 'Via Delle Amore' (the love path), which connects the Cinque Terre villages. The 'Passegiate dei Baci' is a newly laid trail away from the street that connects Portofino with Paraggia. From up here, you have great views of the sea, the lavish villas, and small castles. Truly impressive!

Day 6: Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre (Five Villages) are the main attraction in Liguria. Rightfully renowned for their beautiful, colorful, and picturesque coastal villages, they have developed quite a hype, and you push your way through the crowds of tourists in the alleys. Although some of the original charm is lost, the villages remain stunning. Since 1997, they have been a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The villages themselves can only be explored on foot; parking is scarce and quite expensive. It's best to leave your car in La Spezia and take the train or boat to the villages.

Here you will find all the sights in Cinque Terre

Overview of Cinque Terre:

Monterosso: the northernmost and largest village and the only one with a large beach. Notable sights include the high church San Francesco, the statue of the giant near the beach, and the remains of the castle.
Vernazza: often hailed as the most beautiful village. There is a beautiful harbor with colorful fishing boats, the Doria castle with a great view of the sea, and the church Santa Margherita di Antiochia right by the sea.
Corniglia: the only place not directly by the sea but 100 m high on a cliff. From Corniglia, you have the best view of the coast. Notably, the church San Pietro with its Gothic rose window is also worth seeing. It is the quietest of the Cinque Terre villages.
Manarola: the oldest village. It's especially known for the via dell'Amore, which connects Manarola with Riomaggiore. Numerous love locks can be found along the fence during the walk. However, even for the non-romantic, the path is definitely worth recommending!
Riomaggiore: the liveliest and most visited place. The colorful houses rise steeply over the beautiful harbor bay, where boats are parked on the village's only street, and restaurants lean against one another.

Tip: Cinque Terre Card

If you want to leave your car in Levanto or La Spezia and take the train, the Cinque Terre Card is worthwhile for you. This allows you to use the many hiking paths that connect the villages and provides unlimited train rides on the Levanto - Cinque Terre - La Spezia route and back.
Cost: 1 day - €16, 2 days - €29
More info and online purchase at: www.cinqueterre.eu.com/cinque-terre-card

I would recommend selecting three of the villages and taking the time to explore them. The next morning, you can visit one more village to wrap things up and then continue your travels.

Day 7: Cinque Terre - Tellaro

Once you've completed your visit to the Cinque Terre villages, I recommend driving about 30km further south to Tellaro.

It is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and is just as colorful as the Cinque Terre villages. However, here you have the lovely harbor and the steep alleys mostly to yourself.

Tellaro

Part of the association 'borghi più belli d'Italia',' the most beautiful places in Italy
Located in the Gulf of La Spezia, 3km south of Lerici
It's best to just let yourself be carried away through the narrow alleys. Upon reaching the harbor, the church Santa Maria in Sela offers a great photo opportunity, and there are small paths that lead you along the coast.
If you have time, you can also take the 4km long hiking path up to the mountain village of Montemarcello. On easy, mostly shady paths, you will have wonderful views of the coast and Tellaro.

Tellaro is at the end of a dead end, so you will need to drive back the same way. It is a good 1.5 hours back to Genoa if you take the highway.

More Tips and Information about Liguria

Culinary Specialties in Liguria

Like every region in Italy, Liguria has its culinary specialties. The area here is especially marked by the meeting of mountains and sea: fish dishes on one side and hearty game dishes on the other. And it all (naturally, we are in Italy after all) rounded off with a good glass of wine.

The most famous specialty of Liguria is certainly Pesto Genovese. Made from basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, and a bit of pecorino cheese, it tastes exquisite with pasta.

Focaccia bread is also known beyond the borders of Liguria: similar to a pizza base but much thicker, this fluffy bread can be prepared in various ways: plain, with cheese, onions, or as 'Focaccia alla Genovese' with tomatoes, olives, rosemary, and salt. Another version in Liguria is the 'Sardenaria' - a focaccia made with sardines, anchovies, and capers.

Other fish that commonly appear on the table besides anchovies and sardines include sea bream, mussels, and other seafood, along with swordfish. All these fish are native to the Ligurian coast and find frequent use in cooking.

If you crave meat, you should try the various types of salami: these are often flavored with black pepper, garlic, or white wine and are very tasty. Another specialty is Cima all Genovese; stuffed veal pockets that are typically sliced and served cold. Alternatively, there's Coniglio; rabbit that is often prepared with olives, herbs, and wine.

Whether fish, meat, or just a traditional pizza - in any case, you should round off your meal with a glass of wine. The Ligurian wine region is not very large, which is why few wines make it to export, and everything is mostly consumed locally. Therefore, you definitely shouldn't miss the opportunity to enjoy a good drop while you're here!

Getting to Liguria

If you wish to travel by plane, it's advisable to fly into Genoa and pick up a rental car there. Flights are available from many major U.S. cities, such as New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and Miami. Alternatively, you can also fly into Nice in France (which is also a beautiful city) and rent a car from there.

Deutsche Bahn also offers connections to Genoa - but depending on where you are coming from in the U.S., you might spend a good 14 to 15 hours on the train and have to switch multiple times.

The easiest way is probably to drive there yourself - the most direct route goes through Milan and then always following the highway south until you reach Genoa. However, keep in mind that Italian highways have tolls; over longer distances, it can add up to quite a bit.

Travel Guide to Liguria

In the Camper Guide Lombardy, Piedmont and Liguria, you will find useful tips, route suggestions, and recommended stops and campsites. Ideal for anyone traveling to the region for the first time and wanting to gather information and inspiration.

I hope my tips have been helpful in preparing you for your road trip through Liguria. If you have any questions or further tips, please feel free to leave me a comment!

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Liguria Sights