Kigali, Capital of Rwanda

Kigali is not only the capital of Rwanda, but also the economic and cultural center of the country. This is where business is done, and most tourists arrive in Rwanda unless they are taking a road trip through Uganda and Rwanda like I did.

If you want to pronounce the name of the city like a local, it sounds more like Tschi-gali than Ki-gali. In the native language Kinyarwanda, the letters 'ki' are pronounced like 'tschi'.

Many know Kigali from the Hollywood film "Hotel Rwanda". This was also my first shocking exposure to Kigali and Rwanda. I was left reeling from the film, knowing it was supposed to be a true story. Had I known so little about the world back then? From that point on, I wanted to learn more about this country.

I started buying books and films about Rwanda and conducting research online (book recommendations at the end of this article). Ultimately, this led me to an almost 4-week road trip, during which I absolutely had to visit Kigali. We stayed here for two nights. I did not visit the Hotel Rwanda - the Hôtel des Mille Collines. The statements about the actual events at the hotel and the 'true' story of Paul Rusesabagina are too contradictory. However, I do recommend reading the book about the film.

Even though other parts of the country are more picturesque, Kigali has wonderful places to offer at second glance, that may not reveal themselves at first.

During our drive from Lake Kivu to Kigali, we enjoyed wonderful landscapes for hours. After the peace and serenity of nature in recent days around Lake Kivu and previously in Mount Gahinga and Bwindi National Park, which are quite tranquil, my first impression of Kigali was: dusty, hectic, and loud. In short: we wanted to get back into nature as quickly as possible.

Upon entering Kigali, Google Maps directed me onto a street where a market was taking place. While some drivers were occasionally passing in front of us, I didn't want to risk running over the goods laid out by the people on the ground. Therefore, we first looked for a bus station to turn around and quickly leave the street.

Eventually, we ignored our GPS instructions and navigated via the larger main roads to our accommodation, the Gloria Hotel. Two days prior, it had taken nearly two hours to book this hotel through booking.com with poor internet. Somehow, it worked out. The hotel is newly renovated, the room is huge, and almost three times larger than the small cottage of our previous nights at Lake Kivu.

After unpacking the essentials, we made a rough plan of what we wanted to explore in the next couple of days.

We discovered that Kigali is not just hectic and loud during the evening and the next day. Therefore, I have summarized the places I visited and my experiences here.

My tip for Kigali: Arrange for a taxi driver for your planned visits. He will drive you from place to place and wait while you explore. Our driver was quite impressed by the Inema Arts Center, as he had never been there before. His English and French were rather poor, but we managed to communicate somehow.

We paid the taxi driver (originally arranged for 4 hours, but it ended up being 6 hours) 32,000 RWF (approximately 40 Euros) with a tip.

The Inema Arts Center was founded in 2012 by the two brothers Innocent and Emmanuel Nkuranga. Hence the name Inema. Inema means 'blessing, gift, or to have, nurture, or receive a talent' in Kinyarwanda.

By chance and through Tripadvisor, we ended up here. African contemporary art is really fascinating. Especially since the two took the time to discuss their biggest challenges in Rwanda with us over coffee and cinnamon rolls and guided us through their small yet exquisite gallery. The studio in the courtyard, where some unfinished artworks by Emmanuel are, was also part of our private tour.

To bring art closer to the poorer population, the brothers invite children to regular workshops. Emmanuel showed us impressive works created during these sessions! The Inema Art Center accommodates 10-13 artists, all showcasing diverse types of African contemporary art.

Additionally, women are trained in sewing as part of a support program initiated by Innocent, enabling them to sell the products (leather handbags, wallets, bracelets, and necklaces) made in the shop.

Regular workshops with the 'next generation' are also conducted, allowing children aged 10-17 in collaboration with the orphanage to discover their artistic talents. In the special AWAM showcase, the works of young artists are available for purchase.

You can also admire the art of the brothers and other artists from the center here:

Entrance is free here, but the brothers and their fellow artists appreciate small donations.

At the Inema Cafe, take your time and relax. They have truly delicious cinnamon rolls, coffee, and, of course, other refreshing drinks.

Follow the Arts Center on Facebook to stay informed about regularly scheduled events.

Inema Arts Center website

Innocent's website

Address: KG 563 Street in the Kacyiru neighborhood

Kigali has been the capital of Rwanda since independence from Belgium in 1962 and is located in the center of the country. Originally built on Mount Kigali at an elevation of 1850 m, the rapidly growing green city now extends over several hills, all about 1600 m high. From Kigali, paved roads radiate out to all parts of the country.

These roads wind through, until suddenly you find yourself in the largest city of Rwanda with 1.2 million inhabitants. The city never feels large, as the settlements are spread between Mount Kigali (1850 m) and Mount Juli (2000 m). Many small hills make the city seem much smaller than it actually is.

However, the country's revival can be seen at every corner: there is construction everywhere, and the city is surprisingly clean - even though some dusty streets remain from the time before the genocide in 1994.

A truly heavenly place is the Heaven Restaurant & Bar, which is considered one of the culinary highlights of Kigali. The food is more upscale for Rwandan standards but truly delicious, especially the guacamole with Matoke chips! Moreover, from the large covered open-air platform, you have a great view of Kigali. The atmosphere is very relaxed and pleasant when you need a break from the hustle and bustle of the city.

After spending a wonderful evening here, I bought a book upon leaving the restaurant that I wish I had read beforehand. In it, the founder Josh Ruxin narrates how he moved from San Francisco to Kigali, discussing NGOs, helping in orphanages, and launching his own restaurant 'Heaven' - a wonderful story about this fantastic place.

I learned that initially, orphans and later all Rwandans interested in receiving training in the hotel and food service industry were welcomed at Heaven. Many of them are still working today in Heaven Restaurant or the adjoining boutique hotel. He also speaks of the challenges in Rwanda and the experiences he and his wife have encountered over the years. A great book (check it out here)!

The Genocide Museum was opened in Kigali in 2004 to honor the victims of the genocide. It is not the only memorial site in and around Kigali, but it is one that deeply affects you. After visiting, I had no desire to see more atrocities, especially in the memorials at Nyamata Church and Ntamara Church, which still bear witness.

I have been interested in the 1994 genocide in Rwanda for a long time, and yet it is particularly horrifying, moving, and unbelievable how naively the world looked away. The history of Rwanda is also displayed in the museum with many pictures and videos. Just a 10-minute film with images and statements from survivors at the beginning of the visit leaves few eyes dry.

It is also disturbing that the guide at the museum (a part of the film, having lost all relatives and speaking about it) apologized to us. Why? Just because we shed a few tears? That pales in comparison to what happened to him.

Outside the museum building, there are mass graves, where found bones are still being buried, having been excavated repeatedly. A long wall serves as a memorial plaque for all known names of the victims. Unfortunately, this is constantly updated with new names.

The so-called craft markets are absolute tourist traps. Hut after hut offers you souvenirs and crafts that are better bought directly from the producers in smaller communities. It's quite tiring to walk through the street without being invited into each shop by the respective seller. Politeness almost forbids you to ignore the request. After the tenth shop, it becomes exhausting.

Much prefer to visit the real market, which was located diagonally across from our hotel. However, it unfortunately closed whenever we were there in the evenings.

The Kigali International Airport is the only international airport in Rwanda. It is located about 12 km east of the city. Therefore, most travelers enter the country through this airport. Turkish Airlines, KLM, Ethiopian Airlines, Qatar, and Brussels Airlines offer affordable flights from Europe to Kigali.

Tips on how to find cheap flights

All paved roads in Rwanda converge in Kigali. If you are arriving from Uganda like I did, Kisoro and Kabale are the closest towns to the border crossings into Rwanda.

Tip: Rental cars are cheaper in Uganda. So, if you want to take a road trip through Uganda and Rwanda, carefully consider where you want to start.

In Kigali itself, we left the rental car parked and used only taxis. Too many one-way streets and chaotic driving styles are easily avoided that way. A taxi ride is very affordable and, for example, from Heaven Restaurant to our hotel (1.5 km, about 20 minutes ride) costs only 3,000 RWF plus tip (about 3.70 €).

For our exploration day in Kigali, we also booked a taxi driver for 6 hours. This cost 32,000 RWF including tip. Moto-taxis are cheaper, costing only 500 - 1500 RWF depending on the distance. Although all moto-taxi drivers are licensed, I feel safer in a taxi. The driving habits of all Africans can be rather adventurous...

Thanks to its altitude, the climate in Kigali is quite pleasant and moderate despite its tropical location. Average temperatures in Kigali remain consistent, around 15 - 27°C. Only during the rainy seasons in March - April and October - November can there be frequent rains.

After spending nearly three weeks traveling in East Africa when we arrived in Kigali, we had no concerns about safety. It was only when leaving the hotel in the evening that we noticed: At every corner, there stood a policeman with an AK-47 around his neck. By the way, there is no street lighting, and the hustle and bustle at night on the streets and sidewalks is just like during the day.

We never felt unsafe, even though as MuZungus (whites), we attracted all the attention. I claim that traveling in Rwanda is generally safe. Just be cautious while driving. Serious accidents happen here often as people don't seem to know how to drive (in my opinion).

For Rwanda, I can recommend the Bradt Guide Rwanda (More Info Here) in English.

Josh Ruxin

The newlyweds Josh and Alissa tell their story. From San Francisco to Kigali (Rwanda), from NGOs, helping in orphanages to their own restaurant 'Heaven' - a wonderful story about this great place. I had dinner at Heaven myself, enjoyed every second, and discovered this book while leaving. I bought it immediately, started reading, and hardly put it down until the end.

Paul Rusesabagina

The true story behind 'Hotel Rwanda'. When Rwanda became the scene of an unimaginable genocide in 1994, one man manages to save over 1000 Tutsis-Paul Rusesabagina, the manager of the Hôtel des Mille Collines. The book provides insight into the history of Rwanda as Paul Rusesabagina describes through his own story how such horrific genocides could occur.

Both the book and the film moved me deeply. How can the world turn a blind eye when over half a million people are simply slaughtered because they belong to the wrong tribe? Strangely, Paul is not mentioned in the Genocide Museum in Kigali at all.

Do you want to always receive the best travel and insider tips? Then follow me on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Threads, or subscribe to my Newsletter to receive regular updates and exclusive tips.

♥ Do you enjoy using my tips? Say thank you with a coffee ☕️

My articles are the result of extensive research, personal experiences, and honest recommendations - completely AI-free. I write them so you can plan your travels stress-free with genuine, thoroughly tested advice.

If you appreciate my work and would like to say thank you, I would love a small tip in my virtual Travel Fund. Every contribution helps me continue to create high-quality content independently and passionately for you. Thank you!

Trust is important: In some of my articles, you will find referral links (affiliate links). If you book or buy something through one of these links, it won't cost you anything extra - but I receive a small commission. This way, you can support me effortlessly and help keep this blog alive. Thank you for being part of my community and sharing my passion for authentic travel!