Music Festival InDNegev in the Negev Desert

Israel carries a significant burden, which primarily manifests in the minds of many people plagued by preconceptions. Friends, acquaintances, and family members' eyes widen as I recount my journey, and the question 'Isn't that dangerous?' followed by the clichéd 'Take care of yourself!' usually comes up quickly.

However, this country and its culturally contrasting metropolises, Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, are not only surprisingly just a few hours' flight away but also a much more attractive (and safer) travel destination than one might think. This report aims to dispel clichés and fears and bring the country, its open and proud people, the relatively palpable cultural depth, and absolutely fantastic food onto your travel list-preferably right at the top!

The main reason for the trip is something special for me: the InDNegev Festival in the southern Negev Desert is animated each year by over 130 bands and nearly 9,000 visitors with great music and a carefree atmosphere. As a musician and industry professional, I've seen my fair share of music festivals-but never have I not known any of the artists.

Here, there are no big names, no 'Kings of Leon' or 'Radiohead', only musicians from Israel, some deviating from and others sticking closely to Western pop paths. But let's take it step by step; I spend the first days in Tel Aviv...

The images on television of military salvos and burning streets seem far away as I arrive at the charming yet not overly extravagant 'Crown Plaza' hotel with direct ocean views.

I reflect on rainy Berlin as I navigate the narrow streets under bright sunshine and 30 degrees while indulging in the first culinary local color of the country: shawarma, a wellness sandwich made from lamb or chicken sliced from a skewer. Quite different from back home; the bread is softer, the meat is spiced more intensely (and spicier) - a real benchmark shawarma.

Next, I continue by bike along the coast to Jaffa's old town, featuring wonderful mosques and churches, a harbor, and the nationally renowned market with food, clothes, lots of knick-knacks, and snacks. Compared to other, more expansive old town districts, Jaffa is quite small, yet thanks to the winding streets, you can easily spend half a day here.

If hunger strikes, the best option is to stop by 'Dr. Shakshuka'. The doctor title is self-appointed by this famous local, as he serves one of the best shakshukas in the city (a hearty spicy tomato sauce with poached eggs, into which bread is dipped-like in everything else).

Then we head further to Rothschild Boulevard, a street that Tel Avivians deem the showcase and highlight boulevard. There's lively activity, countless (some luxurious, some 'ordinary') shops line the long street. It's great for shopping! You can also have a pleasant meal here, for example, at the 'Social Club', one of the city's most famous Mediterranean restaurants.

Admittedly, it's very tasty, but I can also make a good pasta (or I can) in Berlin, so I tend toward the rustic local spots, following Erich Kästner's saying: 'Fools visit museums in a foreign land; wise men go to the taverns.'

'Port Sa'id' is one such gem: Here, the freshest ingredients are used to serve a modern interpretation of Israeli mezze. Just order a few plates and a 'Goldstar' beer, share the bread brotherly, and dip wildly between the dishes. That's how the other young Israelis, who flock here, do it too. Particularly the hummus and the chilled garlic beans are incredibly good.

If you're still not satisfied: The nightlife of Tel Aviv is famously infamous. I'm too worn out for a club, so a nightcap in a bar sounds better. We find success: 'Teder', in a courtyard that during the day is bustling with markets and shops, offers live radio today featuring laid-back, electronic-infused pop music, along with cool drinks and relaxed, open, and very hip-dressed Israelis.

This place seems, like so many other bars and clubs in the city, to change locations every few weeks-so check Google before your visit.

For whoever is (still) hungry, pizza is up for order here, alongside the chicken schnitzel, one of the country's trendy imports. Here, everyone eats.

Tel Aviv is also the city of artists, painters, and gallery owners; thus, the exhibition 'Hipstory' by Amit Shimoni features famous figures from politics, pop culture, and religion dressed in hipster attire.

I like it here so much that I could easily stay for another one to ten beers. But the festival awaits, and at this point, I suspect I will need to catch up on sleep tonight... Reason prevails over thirst.

With a cheerful 'Shalom!', we are welcomed by the friendly organizers of the festival during accreditation at the venue. And as it turns out, everyone here is exceedingly friendly and relaxed!

The festival, primarily devoted to the alternative music scene and consciously avoiding beer sponsorship and top acts, is regarded as the largest and most influential music event in the country, celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.

Back in 2006, things looked different. A few friends had the idea to create a bit of music, drove to the desert with a power generator, and invited a few people. It grew and grew, and today nearly 130 bands and 9,000 people populate the site, wandering between stages, food stalls, and art installations.

It takes three weeks to set up the large and small stages (six in total) with all the technical equipment and lighting. Logically, the three-day festival has had to professionalize over the years, yet no one here seems like they have to 'work'; everyone is dedicated to the younger and older artists performing here.

The atmosphere can be described as a mix of 'Fusion' and 'Burning Man'. The seemingly endless desert sand creates a unique, almost isolated atmosphere; far away from everything, I only think of the moment-a little parallel world.

Many (constantly increasing throughout the festival) artworks, handmade items for sale, and delicious, predominantly vegan food provide enough space for free spirits, but not for commercialization.

Although I've familiarized myself with a majority of the bands, in the end, I meet so many people that I set my schedule aside and let myself be carried along by others.

The musical quality is consistently remarkably high, with a mix of Hebrew and English-language music being about 50/50-sometimes even within a single song. Here are a few personal highlights, with an explicit recommendation to give them a listen:

The festival's opening: Two completely crazy girls turn the clock back 30 years, reviving the punk spirit that still buzzes somewhere in Berlin-Kreuzberg. Awesome.

A heaping tablespoon of 'Foals', a few grams of 'Metronomy', and a tiny pinch of 'Prince'-done.

The surprise on the small 'Elephants' stage. For me, she's the 'Sade' of Israel!

'Rage Against The Machine' brings the energy, but someone forgot to bring their sound into the new millennium. Thankfully, Jeronimo takes care of that.

Pogo, energy, good vibes, and sometimes a bit of noise. Classy!

This show captivated me more and more with each song. Great melodies, sometimes delicate, often danceable, and absolutely charming.

Thanks to the many wonderful, exceedingly open-hearted, and generous people, I don't get to bed before 4 am on any of the two and a half days. This time I am staying in a kibbutz, which are small, autonomous, and secure Israeli villages called Ze'aalim. The bungalow complex 'Orim Lodge', with its pool and fantastic hot pot filled with water from a deep, hot spring, is relatively new and just a few minutes' drive from the festival.

With tired eyes (one of them watering), I leave the festival on the last day around noon. I feel I've come closer to the Israelis. We talked together, listened to music, drank, and celebrated. This is the beauty of travel; those uncertain moments when allowing oneself to drift is more important than the opening hours of an impressive cathedral.

I recommend anyone with even the slightest interest in travel and music to get a ticket for next year.

I spend the last half day in Jerusalem-and I'm astonished by how strongly this city differs from Tel Aviv. Someone told me that Jerusalem is 'the Disneyland for believers'-and he was right. Faith is omnipresent here; the daily rituals, the buildings, the city, the air all revolve around religion. The city panorama is also magnificent as it shines golden in the rays of the setting sun.

We wander through the narrow streets where Jesus is said to have carried his cross and see thousands of years old stones, tiles, and structures. The most impressive is the Western Wall. We know it from television, where we see men with or without religious garb lost in prayer and penitence with their eyes closed.

Yet, standing in the midst of it brings goosebumps: I have seldom felt so impressed and at the same time uncomfortable. The faith, the culture-all that lies behind these things that are ritually celebrated here is unimaginably far from our everyday lives.

I feel like I'm in a zoo, with the difference that I am caged. Out of respect, I refrain from taking pictures, but still: It is a unique experience that is engraved in my mind and that I want to recommend to everyone.

Beautiful, more beautiful-Israel!

Those who free themselves from their preconceptions will discover a country full of cultural depth and an open spirit that welcomes you at all times with equally open arms. The festival is also impressive, with its overwhelmingly diverse Israeli music that deserves much more attention in our circles. I'm looking forward to next year!

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Thanks

A big thank you to the wonderful organizers from the Israel Ministry of Tourism, our incredibly friendly and knowledgeable guides, and Amit Hevrony from the InDNegev Festival, who was always there to assist me.