Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakech

When asked, "What are you looking for?" a simple answer would be, "The square."

Djemaa el-Fna (Place of the Executed) also known as the Place of Jugglers, is the vibrant heart of Marrakech and arguably one of the most famous squares in all of Africa.

Here lies the heart of Marrakech.

The description "The square" is enough for locals to understand where you want to go. Everyone knows it, and you cannot miss Djemaa el-Fna when visiting Marrakech.

At the end of the article, you will learn where to get the best view of the square, how photography works in Marrakech, and see more impressions from Djemaa el-Fna and the souks.

They say all roads lead to this square. It must be true, as I find myself here day after day at a place that needs no introduction: it is simply the chaotic, loud, inspiring, and unforgettable spot in the country.

An old saying goes:

"If you have a day in Morocco, spend it in Marrakech. If you have just an hour, spend it at Djemaa el-Fna!"

10 AM: The colorful hustle begins.

From 10 AM onwards, the daily commotion kicks off. During the midday heat, the vibe is still subdued as pedestrians meander slowly through the souks, but life picks up pace at sunset.

Thousands of Marrakechis flood to the city's meeting point.

At this time, the healers and "dentists" (which I call quacks with their jars full of extracted teeth) leave, and countless jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers with their cobras, fire swallowers, musicians, and acrobats fill the square.

There are even unknown games being played: I call this one "Fishing for Soda Bottles"-whoever catches the bottle keeps it:

There are even boxing matches taking place, on which I could bet. As a woman, I prefer to stay in the background.

Hundreds of chefs have set up their grills by now. The smoke from their grills obscures the view.

At the countless snack stalls, you can find not only top-notch but also extraordinary food for us: Aside from kebabs, fish, vegetables, and grilled skewers, there are snails and even grilled sheep heads (the same ones I tried during my Township tour in Cape Town).

Just as numerous as juice vendors are the nut sellers, who loudly tout for the favor of their customers.

Alcohol is (at least in public) taboo. Therefore, you can get freshly squeezed and super tasty juices such as orange, pomegranate, lemon, and apple juice from fruit vendors starting from 10 dirhams (about 90 cents per glass).

From Djemaa el-Fna, you have direct access to the souks. There is no street map for the maze of alleys; it would probably not help, as only a few alleys are marked. Let yourself drift.

You are right in the shopping mecca where you can find everything: spice merchants, nut sellers, dyers, tailors, booksellers, lamp manufacturers, soup vendors, creams for all kinds of ailments.

At one stall, I discover dried snake skins, toads, and paws. Plus, an unidentifiable brew. Miracle cures for everything: from infertility remedies to pain relief treatments.

The next stall sells rose water, balms, and other waters. What for, I do not know. Water vendors ring bells to attract attention.

One stall further, there are lizards, turtles, and chameleons. Are these the pets of Morocco?

Here, you can truly find everything.

I squeeze through overcrowded and narrow alleys. Between honking scooters and donkey carts. I love this unpredictable chaos.

My stroll resembles a wild goose chase. One moment, I think I just need to turn right twice to end up back at the main square, and 15 minutes later, I realize I have no idea where I am or which direction to go.

Even the Koutouiba Mosque, which is supposed to serve as my guide, only becomes visible once I have my goal in sight. Wonderful - just the way I love it!

The best view of the spectacle at Djemaa el-Fna can be found from the terrace of Café de France. Here, you can sit for hours, enjoying a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice (there is no alcohol) while watching the colorful hustle and the passing clouds of smoke from the grill masters.

By the way, Djemaa el-Fna was declared a masterpiece of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO in 2001, the first square to receive this title.

Unfortunately, I hardly took photos of people here. It's clear that I ask individuals if I can take their picture. But instead of the 5 dirhams recommended by the guide, I am often asked for 10 by the jugglers, storytellers, and snake charmers, which feels excessive. Only rarely is it worth it to me to pay 10 dirhams, and with my companion, I am permitted to take photos.

In the souks, you must also keep an eye on the signs or the looks of the people. Some signs indicate that photography is not allowed. You should definitely ask people for permission. They often refuse for religious reasons.

Women wearing headscarves have turned away at the sight of a hanging camera. These are things you should respect.

You should generally avoid photographing military buildings, soldiers, and police officers.

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