Choquequirao Trek Peru

Choquequirao, the remote Inca ruin city, is located 2,987 meters above sea level in the Peruvian Andes. It is often referred to as the 'Little Sister of Machu Picchu', yet it is much larger.

A visit to Chochquirao is a true adventure, as the site is only accessible by foot. The hike is rated as 'difficult' and scores a 5 out of 5. The paths are steep and rocky-sandy, and often you hike uphill in the scorching heat, with each step becoming a challenge. No trains or buses go here, unlike its neighbor Machu Picchu.

It's no wonder that only a few tourists (though the trend is increasing) make their way here. But it is completely unjustified, as the sights of this Andean landscape leave me speechless. I keep stopping to stare at the scenery, to enjoy it and to imprint as much of it as possible in my memory. Capturing these moments with my camera is almost impossible. These moments and views compensate for all the hardships I have endured over these four days.

I have braved the 4-day trek and thanks to Papaya Tours and a great guide, I have experienced an unforgettable adventure.

In total, I traveled for four days and 44 km of steep hills to discover Choquequirao. The 'Cradle of Gold,' as Peruvians call the city in Quechua, is believed to have served as the Incas' last refuge from the Spaniards, who never discovered this place. It's no surprise - it takes at least 2 days to reach Choquequirao.

'Oh wow, you are going to Choquequirao, that's by far the most beautiful but also the hardest-rated trek around Cusco' - no matter who I talk to, everyone has the utmost respect for this tour. Finding guides for this tour is also difficult; not everyone is eager to make this grueling ascent and retrace the same path back. And I have decided to take on exactly this challenge. The adventure sounded too good to engage with a detailed description of the trail before the trip. Perhaps that was a good thing.

Four days later, freshly showered and lying on a soft hotel bed, I know what everyone is talking about. But: I made it - without collapsing, without blisters or any other injuries. Okay, the countless mosquito bites don't count, as they are normal.

Here you can find my detailed report on the 4-day hike to the Inca ruins of Choquequirao.

At 5 AM, we are picked up from our accommodation in Cusco. The drive to Cachora is not for those with a fear of heights or those who get car sick on winding roads. Even here, many face a significant challenge before the real adventure begins, as the roads wind along steep cliffs.

After about 4 hours of travel (2 hours on a paved road and 2 hours on a gravel road), we reach Cachora. Here, our cook Domenico buys fresh bread, and we continue our journey. This 'road' has only recently been built. Thanks to it, we save ourselves a three-hour walk along a rather unspectacular landscape (i.e., along the gravel road).

But then we arrive. Our duffel bags (weighing a maximum of 6 kg) and food, along with tents are loaded onto five mules. We are also accompanied by a horse, which one of us can ride in case of an emergency ('Emergency Horse'). We are joined by our cook Domenico, his assistant Benedicto, and guide Henry. Additionally, Louis from Cachora, who owns the mules, accompanies us.

Shortly after 10 AM, we set off. First, we go downhill to the river. The entry via sandy switchbacks is relatively easy. 'If it continues like this, it's not so hard,' I think to myself.

We pass an overlook of the canyon - a good chance to spot condors. Unfortunately, the cloud cover is too dense for us to see any birds.

But the wind whips up the dust kicked up by the person in front, making it clear already that this hike will not be a walk in the park.

After three hours, we reach Chiquisca. A cozy campsite where we only stop for lunch. A small kiosk sells drinks, cookies, bananas, and toilet paper. Our original plan was to walk to the river to have lunch and possibly take a cool dip in the river. However, at the lowest point of the hike, there are too many mosquitoes in the midday heat, making a meal impossible.

Around 2:30 PM, we continue downhill to the deep canyon through which the Apurimac flows. By the way, this canyon is one of the deepest in the world. After about 50 minutes, we arrive.

From now on, the cheerful but concentrated downhill walk is over. It's uphill now. Steep uphill. The scorching afternoon sun and the fine sand kicked up by the wind contribute to this: I am exhausted.

The steps become smaller, and I often think of the words of my blogger friend Steve (Back-packer.org): 'Katrin, the 2nd day is the hardest; it's all uphill, and around every bend you think: it can't be far now - but the destination doesn't come any closer.' His tour started at the river; thus, the 2nd day was pure climbing. I'm glad we managed to do part of that on Day 1. Our destination is Camp Santa Rosa (1).

Everyone goes at their own pace. I am grateful for trekking poles, which I have brought for the first time on a trip. I struggle with my last strength over the remains of high steps of old Inca stairs. Eventually, I run out of water, as the dust whipped up by the wind dries out my throat, and I drink more than usual.

When we arrive at the first Camp Santa Rosa after two hours, I am overjoyed. For five Sole, a cold shower awaits me. But to wash off the sweat and dust, I don't care. After that, a great meal awaits us, for which I can barely stay awake due to exhaustion.

Around 8:30 PM, I sink into a deep sleep. In the morning, it starts to rain heavily, and I wake up repeatedly.

On the second day, we will climb the ruins of Choquequirao. At about 4:30 AM, there's a knock on our tent, '¡Buenos dias!, Coca Tea?' - Of course, the warm drink wakes us up. Quickly dress, pack, and at 5 AM we have breakfast. With the first daylight around 5:47 AM, we start our hike.

It drizzles as we continue the ascent. There is still calm at the camp. It seems we are the only early birds. Here, every minute counts to avoid the brutally shining sun that may rise above the horizon.

Around 8 AM, we take a short break and eat our snack that the cooks packed: a banana, sandwich, a chocolate bar, and peach juice. After that, we continue in silence. Everyone at their own pace.

A seemingly never-ending way up, the goal always in sight - but slowly getting closer. One switchback after another.

Suddenly - and about an hour from the next camp - guide Henry calls for a break and grins: 'You've done the hardest part. From now on, it's flat until the camp and Choquequirao is only 50 meters higher than our current location.' We look at each other in disbelief and feel relieved.

It is 8:43 AM (yes, I really noted all the times in detail), when we reach Marampata. In the small mountain village, many take a break and set up their camp. This is the only 'place' before Choquequirao that offers accommodation. We take another 10-minute break. We are on schedule and do not want to rush.

Thirty minutes later, we reach Sunchupata, the entrance to the national park. We sign in, and Henry pays for the tickets (60 PEN per person, included in our tour). Just 20 minutes later, our cook and assistant arrive with the mules. After a short discussion, it's decided that we will continue to the campsite, have lunch there, and after a break, proceed to Choquequirao in the afternoon.

The path to the campsite seems to stretch into infinity. As if the last hours have meant nothing, we walk animatedly and lightly, in good spirits. The more we hike, and the more ascents and descents we have, the more impatient we become. Didn't Henry say, 'Choque' is only 50 meters higher? He didn't mention the following ups and downs, which are equally steep (but shorter).

The first thing we see are Inca terraces far below on the steep slope at Choquequirao:

But eventually, we do reach our intermediate goal. It is 10:45 AM and we have sufficient time - even for a lunchtime nap, which we take after eating.

From here, we only need another 35 minutes to reach Choquequirao itself. Our two cooks come along with us as we tackle the final meters upwards. Choquequirao is special for everyone, and as one of the most important sites in Peru, the assistant cook wants to visit this place for the first time.

Suddenly the fog clears, and we have a clear view of the path from Marampata. We repeatedly admire the stretch we cover per day:

On the path to the main plaza, we often pass old walls, overgrown by the fog forest. It's a shame that not more of Choquequirao has been uncovered; the area would be immense:

When we arrive at an altitude of 3,085 meters, I am moved. The fabled city lies before us, often hidden behind mist. Time and again, the clouds part for brief moments, revealing the site. We spend almost four hours on the extensive site, navigating more steep ascents and descents through Indiana Jones-style paths in the fog forests.

The most impressive are the 'Llama Terraces', whose expanse becomes truly visible only thanks to aerial shots from my drone. These terraces are accessed via a path through the fog forest in about an hour downhill. Of course, the return journey is steep uphill again. But I have almost gotten used to that.

By the way: Always look up if the sky is not covered by clouds. I spotted a condor here, so always have binoculars with you (you can find my tips for binoculars further down in the packing list).

It's incredible what effort the people exerted to haul all these stones up over the steep slopes. No wonder Choquequirao was never captured by the Spaniards. Who would be so foolish as to endure this hardship? I ask myself repeatedly.

Unlike the tourist magnet Machu Picchu, Choquequirao has only been uncovered up to 30%. It is suspected that a much larger city lies hidden here. Anyone who walks around the site can guess the magnitude of it. The dug terraces with llamas, houses, and steep terraces are far apart.

Interestingly, we almost have Choquequirao to ourselves. Only a handful of other tourists are wandering around the site. The ruins, shrouded in fog, repeatedly emerge ghost-like, only to suddenly disappear. Guide Henry has said from the start, 'Choquequirao is my favorite tour, but I do it very rarely because the effort is much greater than on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.' But he loves this place and the journey to get here. Only now do I know why.

Shortly before 6 PM, we are back at the main plaza and ready to leave Choquequirao. The walk back to the campsite takes about an hour. This time we take a different path through the fog forest, past Inca terraces.

After an even colder shower than the day before and a - as always - delicious dinner, we happily and exhaustedly sink into our sleeping bags.

From today, we start our journey back. We know the way and know what awaits us. Wake-up call is again at 4:30 AM, breakfast at 5 AM, and by 5:43 AM with the first daylight, we start our descent. On the third day, every step aches. It rains, and the fog only slowly dissipates.

Almost three hours later, we reach Camp Santa Rosa, where we camped on Day 1. We have our snack for breakfast, and our knees appreciate a brief respite.

At 10:14 AM, we reach the valley and the bridge with a nervous glance upward. The sun now shines mercilessly, and I apply mosquito spray, hold my baseball cap under the icy water to cool my head, and remove the legs from my zip-off pants.

It is far too hot. At noon, around 2 hours later, we reach our place for lunch, Coca Masa. It's as hot as an oven. My throat is dry, my head is burning. We take a break until 2:30 PM, as continuing under this midday heat makes no sense. It's only another 1.5-hours to Camp Abra Capuliyoc, and we are well ahead on time.

Other operators are already pitching their tents here. However, I wonder what one can do in the middle of nowhere with half an afternoon and am glad we are continuing on.

In the evening, there's the next shower. As always, it's ice-cold, and the showerhead this time consists of a Fanta bottle with cut-out holes resembling a showerhead. It's more akin to a cat wash, as mosquitoes swarm around us. We enjoy the sunset as well as the incredibly clear starry sky, with the Milky Way visible to the naked eye. Saturn and Jupiter shine, along with numerous constellations. We are so exhausted that we even forget to take pictures of it.

Not to forget, the food was fantastic again. There was even a cake! How they managed that with a gas stove, they wouldn't reveal to us.

On the last day, like every morning, we are awakened at 4:30 AM with a hot cup of coca tea at the tent. We set off before 7 AM. We want to reach the destination before sunrise. The day is foggy. We see neither our starting point nor our goal, only a few meters ahead and behind us.

It's a shame because the nature here is simply wonderful and distracts from the effort. Even a viewpoint for birds - especially condors - is obscured by the fog (pictures of the trail without fog can be seen on Day 1 and 2 above).

It smells like smoke, as there was recently a widespread forest fire. Suddenly we hear shouting. A landslide somewhere ahead of us. Local teenagers seem to find it amusing. They do not perceive the danger it poses. We climb over the rubble and are relieved that nothing happened.

Far too many people walk here with headphones and loud music - they wouldn't hear a small rockslide. The crosses along the path commemorate victims that should warn one against.

When we reach the starting point of the Choquequirao trek at 8:28 AM, I have tears in my eyes. I can't believe I actually hiked to Choquequirao and visited the ruin city.

The Choquequirao trek is a rather challenging hike to one of the most important archaeological sites in Peru. It's a great trek and an unforgettable adventure that I would recommend to any visitor to Peru - regardless of how strenuous the path may be! I have enjoyed the remoteness and inaccessibility of the ruins at Choquequirao. Because on the way and at the site, you encounter hardly any other hikers.

I cannot describe the feeling of happiness when we stood in Choquequirao on Day 2 or when we finally arrived back 'at the start' after four days. I had tears in my eyes and felt proud of myself. Being able to accomplish such a challenge is probably thanks to sheer willpower.

If the mules had not carried our luggage and if I hadn't only had the essentials in my backpack, I might have turned back. If the ruins of Choquequirao had not been waiting for me to explore, I might have turned back too.

But at each break, a delicious meal awaited us. It's incredible what our cook Domenico prepared three times a day. Our eyes and astonishment grew larger with each meal. No matter what was served, it was divine. From popcorn to ceviche to lomo saltado, and on the last evening, even a cake! Simply fantastic! This food compensates day after day for the efforts we took to explore Choquequirao.

Many thanks to Papaya Tours and Visit Peru for inviting me to undertake this trek. I can highly recommend booking the tour through Papaya Tours. The guide and cook were excellent, and the quality of the rented sleeping bags and tents was superb.

As we were wondering about this before the hike, I have scanned the map we received from our provider. I cannot emphasize enough that the division was perfect. On Day 2, most other groups had to complete the entire ascent to Choquequirao; we had already managed part of it on Day 1.

Here I have scanned our map and marked which route we took on which day of the Choquequirao trek:

Honestly? That question did not arise for me. I had neither the desire to trudge uphill (like most of the backpackers we encountered, red in the face and on the verge of collapse with overloaded backpacks) nor to lug all those items (we're not just talking about tents, but also food, water, and so on) uphill. It wouldn't be called 'enjoyment' at that point.

Of course, there are minimalists who manage with a tiny backpack alongside a tent and other items - I don't count myself among them. Therefore, we booked the tour with a provider, mules, a guide, and cooks.

The advantage is not only the good food, a tent with a warm sleeping bag, but also that a guide can provide you with information and stories about the origins and nature (plants and animals) that you might not receive otherwise.

There are several providers for the trek in Cusco. I felt quite overwhelmed, as everyone - like in a bazaar - tried to pull us into their shop. So, I was glad to have booked the 4-day Choquequirao trek with Papaya Tours before the trip (Link to the tour).

Yes, it's more expensive, but it brought us many advantages:

The hike lasts for 4 days. Some providers also offer the trek in 5 days. You also have the option to continue for another 7 -11 days to Machu Picchu. The trek is rated as 'difficult' and is considered the most challenging round trip around Cusco (although I think the Ausangate trek is at least as challenging or even more, without having done it).

You will sleep in tents; accommodations are available right before Choquequirao in Marampata (Day 2), but I am not aware of any other options.

Due to its location in the Apurímac Valley, the climatic conditions are tropical year-round. Nights can be cool and damp, while days can be very hot. Once the sun breaks through the cloud cover, it becomes blistering hot and exhausting. Most of the trail offers no shade from the sun. Mosquitoes and sandflies make the hike uncomfortable.

The best months to hike are May-September, which is the dry season in Peru. You can hike during the rainy season, but heavy rainfall can often cause landslides, which can be very dangerous (there are crosses at the very beginning commemorating those who fell victim to this). Therefore, our guide strongly advised against it. The dusty trails can also become muddy and especially slippery. Given their steepness and proximity to deep cliffs, this can lead to serious accidents.

I found September to be optimal, as the nights are warmer than in July or August, and it often drizzles in the morning, allowing you to avoid the scorching sun for a few hours. I found that exceptionally pleasant.

You can find all info on the best travel time for Peru here.

The hike reaches an altitude of 3,100 meters, which is lower than Cusco. I suggest you spend at least two days in Cusco before setting off on the trek. This way, your body can adjust to the elevation.

Here is my packing list for the 4-day trek. If you are planning to undertake the tour independently, you will, of course, need a tent, sleeping bag, and mat as well as food, water, and cooking utensils. We booked the tour as described above and only had to worry about clothing and technology (camera).

My luggage consisted of a duffel bag (from Patagonia because it's waterproof*) and a daypack (Deuter Trans Alpine with 28 liters and rain cover*). Photographer Kristina had a duffel bag from The North Face* and bought a backpack in one of the outdoor shops in Cusco.

Before the trip, I compared both duffel bags and opted for the slightly larger duffel from Patagonia*. It can be completely washed, is absolutely waterproof, and also dust-resistant. Whether The North Face duffel is truly waterproof, we don't know. It does have a smaller packing size.

For individual travel to Peru, there is no more thorough and informative guidebook than QUER DURCH PERU.

The guide consists of 370 pages of concentrated knowledge, with packing lists (useful for multi-day treks) and experiences from two bloggers who lived in Peru for an extended time and keep returning.

Thus, you will also find many insider tips, itineraries, and city guides for Peru from Anne and Nora.

Buy Quer durch Peru

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For the trek to Choquequirao, I was invited by Papaya Tours and Prom Peru. A big thank you for that - my experiences and opinions are still my own.

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