The Catlins (South Island, New Zealand)

Coastal children are in the Catlins in the southeast of New Zealand's South Island just right: Stormy weather meets rugged cliffs, white sandy beaches, and wild New Zealand rainforest. Those daring to venture onto the eastern part of the Southern Scenic Route, specifically Highway SH92, will be rewarded with rich wildlife, fewer tourists, no cell phone reception, and breathtaking sunrises.

The Catlins (also known as The Catlins Coast) are located in the southeast of New Zealand's South Island between the towns of Balclutha and Invercargill (marked in yellow on the map). The area is sparsely populated, the climate is harsh, and the scenery is stunning.

The rugged coastline offers not only a fantastic wildlife experience with penguins, seals, and many very rare and endangered bird species but also strong surf that attracts surfers.

If you are not traveling with your own car, it is advisable to book a day tour from Dunedin or Invercargill. You can do this either at the local i-Site or directly online at Elm Wildlife Tours (starting again on October 1st).

Between Dunedin and Invercargill stretches one of the least trafficked stretches of New Zealand along Highway SH92: The Catlins. The route begins south of Balclutha and takes you along the southeastern coast. You should plan to spend at least two to three days for this section.

Of course, you can also 'race' through the Catlins in one day, but in my opinion, it is only with an overnight stay at one of the beautifully situated campsites that you can fully experience the remote Catlins feeling! Moreover, you can also observe penguins and seals in their natural habitat here! Isn't that worth an extra day?

There is generally no best time to visit; you can explore the Catlins all year round. The temperatures are quite mild due to the coastal location, although it never really gets warm. The climate is always rugged, and you should always expect strong winds and rain.

The New Zealand summer offers the highest temperatures. The summer months of December, January, and February are generally the warmest months for New Zealand. Compared to the rest of the South Island, however, you can still expect cooler temperatures here. Nonetheless, the weather remains very changeable. It may be over 20 degrees one day and only 10 degrees the next.

The New Zealand winter months (June, July, and August) are mild but very cool. The average temperatures are around 10 degrees.

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Highway SH92 is completely paved; however, the actual attractions are usually only accessible via gravel roads, which are often only one lane (one way) to drive on. You should definitely factor that into your timing.

Since there are few gas stations and accommodations along the Catlins Coast, you should fill up before heading there and stock up on groceries.

We drove down to the Catlins from the north with our camper van and camped as self-sufficient travelers. You should not miss the following highlights and activities in the Catlins. In the map below, you will find all locations marked.

The first (northern) highlight of the Catlins is located at Nugget Point, a steep cliff where an impressive white lighthouse stands 133 meters high. It has been active since 1870. A short walkway leads you to the observation platform, from where you can admire the so-called Nuggets - rugged rocks - and observe New Zealand fur seals.

'Hoiho' is the Maori name for the oldest living penguin species that you can only encounter in southern New Zealand. Threatened by introduced ferrets, stoats, and cats, there are only about 4,000 of these cute penguins left. You can mostly find their nesting sites along the rugged Catlins coast, especially at Roaring Bay, Purpoise Bay, and the edge of the fossilized forest at Curio Bay.

We encountered our approximately 45-centimeter tall penguin friend during a walk on the hill behind the campsite at Purpoise Bay. He was just standing there on his pink flippers, looking out over the bay with his pale yellow eyes. Perhaps he wanted to spot some dolphins just like we did?

As the name suggests, you will primarily encounter New Zealand sea lions at the end of the world, best seen in the Catlins. This extremely rare sea lion species is not very shy of humans. Therefore, you should ensure to keep a minimum distance of 10 meters when visiting them at Cannibal Bay.

Most importantly, if a large male, about three meters long, rises up and starts roaring, you should quickly seek safety! These 400-kilo males may look sluggish, but they can move very quickly.

You can have a lot of fun with the black-and-white striped dolphins in Purpoise Bay. Here, you'll find the smallest dolphins in the world, the Hector dolphins. Like the New Zealand sea lion, they are also rare. In the Catlins, especially in spring, you often encounter females with their babies, as the babies stay with their mothers for up to two years.

Although the dolphins come very close to the shore, they are still quite shy. Therefore, it is important to follow the DOC rules for interacting with dolphins: do not touch, feed, circle around, or chase. Dolphins usually approach you when you are in the water.

A 55-meter-long hole formed through the collapse of an underground cave - doesn't sound too exciting at first. However, Jack's Blowhole is directly connected to the sea through a 200-meter-long tunnel, and during high tide, water rushes through the tunnel with force and is pushed upwards against the steep cliff walls in the form of water fountains!

Of course, you need to catch the right weather for the spectacle (that is, really bad weather!), but we actually enjoyed the 30 to 40-minute walk over farmland and along the coast very much.

If you love waterfalls, you are in the right place in the Catlins! Here wait at least three beautiful waterfalls for you. We found the 22-meter-high McLeans Falls to be the most impressive, which you can reach via a 40-minute walk. The best time to visit is in the late afternoon when the light is at its best!

In second place are the Purakaunui Falls, where the water cascades over three tiers. The short path to the falls is also beautiful here. Along the way (as everywhere in the Catlins), you'll also find signs explaining which tree species you are currently standing by.

Few stop at Matai Falls. Again, a walk of about 20 to 30 minutes through fuchsias and silver beech leads to the falls. Surprise at the end: There are even two waterfalls.

Unbelievably, we found the most beautiful campsite of our New Zealand trip in the Catlins. Located about 17 kilometers south of Owaka is the Purakaunui Bay. A gorgeous bay for surfing and camping amid grazing sheep. We loved it here! At sunrise, a hefty sea lion passed by, and in the evening, the penguins waddled to their nests.

Cost: For $8-10 you get pure nature here, toilets, running water, and fire pits with firewood that you can gather yourself.

The most splendid caves along the Catlins Coast can be found at the Cathedral Caves. They are part of a large number of natural caves created by the sea. You can access them via a stunning beach up to two hours before or after low tide.

Entry: $NZ 10 (as of March 2022)

Right next to Purpoise Bay lies Curio Bay, where you can marvel at the remains of a fossilized forest from the Jurassic period. It is truly impressive how clearly you can see the ancient tree stumps during low tide. At dusk, the yellow-eyed penguins also waddle to their nests here.

To conclude your Catlins tour, you should stop at Slope Point. On a steep cliff, you will find, marked by a sign, the southernmost point of the South Island. Beyond this, there are only Stewart Island and Antarctica.

As already mentioned, you can best explore the Catlins as a self-sufficient traveler with a camper van or your own car and a tent for overnight stays.

Of course, there are also some motels, lodges, and accommodations for those who do not want to camp.

Find accommodations on booking.com

Our absolute favorite campsite (and indeed the whole trip to New Zealand!) is the Purakaunui Bay Campsite, which truly lives up to its name: a dreamy campsite in a spacious bay set on sheep grazing land. The access is via a gravel road.

Essential information about the campsite:

• 40 sites (non-powered)
• Long-drop toilets
• Drinking water available
• Fire pits and the option to gather firewood
• Direct beach access
• Advance booking required
• Price: NZ$ 8 per person per night; from July 1, 2022, NZ$ 10 per person per night (as of March 2022)

• Camp link: Purakaunui Bay Campsite
• Booking link (Bookings until 30.06.2022 are open; bookings for the 2022/2023 season will be possible from April 5, 2022): Stay at Purakaunui Bay

Another night we spent at a free spot called Fortrose Township, which is located between Slope Point and Invercargill. (Only 'self-contained vehicles'; only between August 1 - November 30)

Caution: Wild camping is strictly prohibited throughout the Catlins and is heavily monitored and punished!

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