Berlin in Winter

'Who travels to Berlin in winter has a problem.' my friend says to me when I tell her about my plan. 'Berlin is cold, gray, and harsh in winter. Everyone knows that. What are you thinking?' Good question, I think. What am I thinking? I just feel like going to Berlin. I want a bit of cold big city, I want to wrap myself in a scarf and coat, I want to hurry through the streets with cold ears and a red nose - That's exactly what I want right now. And I will be rewarded.

Coming to Berlin in winter has some obvious advantages and some less obvious ones. Obviously, not much is going on in the city as usual. It's quieter. This doesn't mean that you can't feel the hustle and bustle of the capital. But the buses aren't overflowing with tourists, you can get a room in your favorite hotel, and there's always a table free for you at the beautiful cafes of the city.

Less obvious is that Berlin in winter is more manageable. You don't have to constantly decide between one attraction and another. Many outdoor events are canceled. Instead of a snack by the Spree, you can have tea in Mitte or coffee and cake at Prenzlauer Berg. Instead of open-air festivals, you'll find cozy concert venues scattered throughout the city offering a stage for both big and small artists.

And yet, you can rely on the familiar: museums, theaters, galleries, and stores are the same as in summer, just less crowded and with a charm of ruggedness and coziness that perhaps is only possible in Berlin during winter.

I dared to spend an entire winter weekend in Berlin. I don't think I have a problem (...but who thinks that about themselves!). However, what I do have is a handful of tips on how to make your winter stay in Berlin an absolute success:

I stayed for the first time at Vienna House Easy Berlin. Good decision. The Vienna House Easy is located on Landsberger Allee between Friedrichshain and Prenzlauer Berg. Alexanderplatz is just a few minutes away by tram. What's special about this hotel is the positivity that radiates from every corner.

Upon arrival, you're greeted with infused water and then it's off to the stylish room. I make myself comfortable, enjoy the perks of fast internet, and spend a quiet night (even though my window faces the street).

In its sophisticated design concept, you can find elements of the city everywhere, along with absolute design classics, contemporary color combinations, a thoughtful lighting concept, and above all, a wonderfully cozy bed! In the morning, the team at Vienna House Easy Berlin spoils you with a comprehensive and varied breakfast buffet that truly leaves no wishes unfulfilled.

In addition to various pastries, there's a grain mill where you can grind your own muesli, dried fruits, various spreads, cold cuts, scrambled eggs, and more. The staff is friendly, helpful, and it seems like they couldn't be having more fun at their job. I feel comfortable. A great starting point to explore the city.

Stephie from Secret Tours Berlin picks me up at the hotel at 10 AM. In her V-Class, she drives me through Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg, and Neukölln. The sun is shining outside, and it's biting cold. During the ride, she tells me how much she loves her job and the people she gets to show 'her Berlin.'

I sit with seat heating in the passenger seat and listen to her with interest. She often casually says, 'Oh look, that's....' and 'By the way, this will soon be...' and 'The resident of this house told me recently that here used to be...' and 'Did you know that...?'

It feels as if a friend is showing me where she lives and what her neighborhood is like. I learn so much about the people who live there, the anecdotes shared, and the history of the streets, buildings, and monuments like in no other city tour before. Stephie chats without being annoying. She quickly picks up on what interests me and shares fun facts at just the right moments, which we both laugh about.

Sometimes we stop and drink tea, sometimes we explore the current stalls of Markthalle 9 together. She skillfully navigates her van through the streets, shows me special shops and cafes, and time flies.

From fresh waffles, cheese from the wheel, meats, and coffee to a photo booth, street food, and a corner where kitchen gadgets are sold at special prices, you can find everything at the market hall.

Stephie enjoys a coffee, and I indulge in a biscotti that couldn't be tastier. Saturdays are quite busy here, Stephie reveals, but weekdays you'll find a cozy buzz, tranquility, and space to closely examine everything. It's a modern form of a land of milk and honey, and I fully immerse myself in it.

Stephie is so enthusiastic and interested in the stories and places that I hang on her every word and want to learn more. At none of the places she takes me have I been before, nor have I read about them in tourist guides. I would consider myself a Berlin expert. But what does that really mean in a city that is constantly changing?

Stephie knows what's new, sometimes she pulls out a map or an old picture showing how the area has changed since the reunification.

She talks about the activists fighting against the gentrification of their neighborhood and how the residents of the former Wall strip made the best of their situation back then. After the tour, she drops me off at the hotel, gives me a warm hug, and I feel as if I've known her forever and as if I now understand Berlin just a little bit better.

The shops on the main streets are overflowing. Tourists are pushing themselves between Christmas decorations, perfume stands, and new gaming consoles. I remember three recommendations from Stephie: the Municipal Blind Institute, the Voo Store, and Hallesches Haus.

The Municipal Blind Institute is located on Oranienstraße in Kreuzberg. It smells like coffee and fresh paper. Upon entering, you find yourself in a wondrous room. On the left is the café's counter, on the right are pretty seating arrangements, old frames on the light blue wall, and a long bench. Relaxed music plays. Before you are lovingly crafted paper jewelry boxes, handmade brushes and brooms, and a fine selection of books - about art, the city, and life. The building itself is a listed monument.

Behind the café, there is a workshop where mainly blind people, but also individuals with other disabilities, work. They create high-quality and unique pieces that have nothing to do with the junk produced in Asia found in many souvenir shops in the city.

The Voo Store also has a café. It is tucked away in a courtyard on Oranienstraße, very close to the Blind Institute. This place is hip. You can also go there - it is Berlin after all. The focus at Voo Store is on clothing that lies somewhere between runway and second-hand in terms of price and design.

There are great books about the artists, designers, and pioneers of our time and their work. People come here to be seen a bit. The clientele includes everything you'd expect from millennials in Berlin. And there's also a liqueur that fits the theme of my trip.

Hallesches Haus is located on Tempelhofer Ufer between Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain. It's an equally magical place like the Blind Institute. Hidden behind thick brick walls, Hallesches Haus fills a large space offering high-quality accessories, clothing, stationery, jewelry, and delicacies like chocolate, liqueur, and spreads.

In the second room, there's also a café. This seems to have become part of the Berlin experience culture: cozy shopping and then grabbing a coffee right next door. I like it because it creates a relaxed and sociable atmosphere everywhere, and 'just browsing' with a hot drink feels just right.

When I enter Café ORA at Oranienplatz, my jaw drops because it is so beautiful. Until recently, this was the city's oldest pharmacy. Today, coffee is served here, and cakes are eaten. And what cakes they are! On a sideboard, the homemade creations jump out at me, and suddenly my biggest problem isn't my cold toes anymore, but the question of which cake I should choose.

The café's operators transformed the historic site with so much respect and recognition into what it is today that you feel like you're on a time travel without having to give up your standards for a comfortable life. The menu is small, the products are selected for quality, and the offerings are local. Outside, people hurry across the street, while inside, locals, internationals, and even those who bought their medicine here many years ago chat away.

Fresh flowers, relaxing music, and the friendly staff create the perfect contrast to the dark, melancholic, and yet wonderfully tasteful decor. In the old showcases, there are books, devices, and old pharmacy jars, and the seating arrangements are lovingly coordinated with the old floor and the original rustic furnishings.

I choose a cinnamon roll and a cocoa with almond milk. I could spend the whole day here, but I have an appointment tonight.

I attend a concert by Lina Maly, a young woman from Hamburg who is conquering the German pop scene with her album 'Just Visiting.' In Berlin, she plays at 'Musik und Frieden' in front of over two hundred happy listeners. The stage is small, the place is packed, and Lina fills the room with goosebumps with her warm and honest voice. After an amazing concert, she takes the time to talk to her guests, fans, and listeners. No personality cult, just gratitude on both sides, and one completely forgets that it's below freezing outside.

For me, it's off for a drink at the treehouse bar above Musik und Frieden. With its view of the passing S-Bahn S1, it reminds me that we are indeed in Berlin. There are many smaller venues in Berlin. It's worth checking the websites of the venues directly for concerts and also to listen in beforehand to unknown artists.

You'll be rewarded with the perfect event to end a freezing cold, exciting, and beautiful weekend.

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Many thanks to Easy by Vienna House Berlin for the invitation to stay and thanks to Stephie from Secret Tours Berlin for inviting me on my individual tour. My opinions and tips are still my own and are not influenced by this.