Alabaster Coast and Étretat in Normandy

It is one of the most beautiful coastlines in France. The Côte d'Albâtre (Alabaster Coast) between the Seine estuary at Le Havre and Le Tréport in the north features spectacularly high and steep alabaster-white chalk cliffs, rising up to 100 meters above the English Channel, with distinctive needles in the sea.

The impressive shapes along the over 140 km long chalk coast are perfect for a road trip in Normandy with an RV. The end of my Normandy trip aimed to highlight the region's attractions. I can only describe it as: windy, changeable, but beautiful!

Happy reading along the route of the Alabaster Coast!

The gateway to the Alabaster Coast coming from the south is marked by the Seine via the Pont de Normandie - the 2141-meter-long bridge over the Seine.

Le Havre is polarizing: some people love the city, while others avoid it. This is probably due to the fact that the city was destroyed during the war and was rebuilt in a 'modern' style. By modern, I mean in the style of the 1980s, which is not necessarily pretty (my hometown Heilbronn faced the same fate).

However, this fact earned Le Havre the status of a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I found it ideal for a day but wouldn't need to stay longer. Although rainy weather did not contribute to my good mood.

The most famous place on the Alabaster Coast is undoubtedly Étretat. Here, the chalk cliffs drop dramatically into the English Channel.

Make sure to explore the rock formations of Port d'Aval, La Falaise d'Amont, La Manneporte, or Le Trou de l'Homme while hiking the long-distance trail along the cliffs. Take your time, pack a picnic, and don't forget your rain jacket. The weather can change quickly.

The town of Étretat lies in an open valley between the spectacular cliffs and was recently back in the spotlight as a filming location for the Netflix series Lupin (Season 1, last episode). From the promenade, steep stairs lead up to the hiking trails on both sides. Want spectacular views? Then you can't miss the stairs. Unforgettable moments are guaranteed.

The town is quite small despite its well-known sights. In the market hall on Boulevard René Coty, you'll find various souvenirs and handicrafts. Additionally, there are many half-timbered houses and villas from the Belle Époque. For the many tourists and day visitors, there are also numerous restaurants and hotels.

Since April 28, 2025, there is a municipal decree prohibiting access to certain areas of the cliffs and tunnels. Violators risk a fine of €135 and potential costs for rescue operations.

Prohibited areas include:

Furthermore, it is forbidden to approach the cliffs: a minimum distance of 5 m from the edge applies on both sides (Amont and Aval). Only the beach areas directly along the promenade and officially designated, secured viewpoints remain accessible. Source: lehavre-etretat-tourisme.com

Hike the GR21 trail from Étretat to Yport along the coast over the cliffs. Spectacular views are guaranteed! Length of the trail: 9 km. I hiked part of it, but the rain and storm became so strong that I had to turn back.

The small town lies in a bay between the high cliffs. The colorful fishing boats sit on the pebble beach while the fishermen search for shrimp at low tide.

At Lann-Bihoué, you can find galettes and crêpes originating from Brittany. I love galettes!

There is a parking area for smaller RVs right next to the church. It was full when I arrived, so I headed towards the campsite and parked by the road. I have no idea whether that was legal; I didn't find any signs to prohibit it.

The town of 20,000 residents is one of the larger towns along the Alabaster Coast. If you are interested in fishing, you should visit the Musée de Pêcheries. It showcases the tough conditions fishermen face along with insights into cod fishing. By the way, from the museum, you can enjoy a great view of the harbor and the coast (unfortunately, visibility was poor due to continuous rain when I was there).

Taste the monks' liqueur at Palais Bénédictine. Due to COVID, my limited tours were all booked in advance. I still bought the liqueur in the shop.

In the harbor, you can book a boat tour along the chalk cliffs to Étretat. Unfortunately, due to the bad weather, our tour literally went down the drain.

You can also participate in city tours and rent bicycles (I would recommend the coastal hike on the GR21 instead).

The small idyllic village with only 300 residents lies by the Durdent River, which flows into the English Channel here. The chalk cliffs here might not be as spectacular as in Étretat, but they still rise 70 meters high. Instead of pebbles, there's a sandy beach, as well as numerous restaurants and bars along the promenade.

Directly behind the waterfront road, there is an RV parking lot for 50 vehicles. I found the spot wonderful, but the persistent bad weather drove me further along the coast.

The charming village of Saint-Valery-en-Caux is quite lovely. Especially the RV parking area right by the sea was highly recommended to me before the visit. It is indeed beautiful and highly recommended.

On one side of the town, you'll find lush green countryside, while on the other side, the typical Alabaster Coast with its chalk cliffs and pebble beaches is located.

Here in the harbor, you can rent boats for deep-sea fishing, explore the lighthouse and harbor, or book small boat tours offered at the yacht club.

There is also a small indoor pool for rainy day programs. The Saint-Valéry Church is worth a visit as well as the Henry IV Museum House, a half-timbered house from 1540. Inside, there's an exhibition of local history and traditions.

This small artists' village is especially cozy. The highlight is the shortest river in France: the Veules, which is only 1150 meters long. Follow the path along the river and discover charming buildings in the narrow alleys. I also found the many roses and flowers, thatched houses, and small cafés wonderful here.

The place has charm and you shouldn't miss it. No wonder it has been named one of the most beautiful villages in France.

There is a marked path called Circuit de Veules that leads you through the town. At the end, you can stop at the Salon de Thé and slowly wind down your visit.

Along the main road, you will find plenty of parking spaces for cars and RVs.

The oldest seaside resort in France is my second to last stop on my Normandy road trip. Around the marina, you will find most of the restaurants and cafés. The beach promenade is quite long, but also very touristy.

Ferries to the English Newhaven depart from the harbor, so there is always a bit more happening in Dieppe. Noteworthy is the church Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours and the Château-Musée located above the coast, which was built in the 15th century to protect the harbor from attacks.

If I had to skip one place along the Côte d'Albâtre, it would be Dieppe. Everything felt too crowded and touristy. For those who want to go shopping, there are numerous opportunities in the lanes behind the beach promenade.

There is a large parking area for RVs at the harbor, equipped with electricity and facilities for water supply and disposal.

Le Tréport, along with its neighboring village Mers-les-Mains in the neighboring department Hauts-de-France, is my final highlight of the road trip. The colorful half-timbered houses from the Belle Époque along the beach promenade are fantastic!

Another highlight is the viewpoint Calvaire des Terrasses atop the parking area by the Funicular (cable car). The view of the sea and the chalk cliffs from high up is unique, especially at sunset!

Note: Riding the funicular is free! Check the opening hours, which vary by season.

Tip: Visit the market held every Tuesday and Saturday morning at Place de la Poissonnerie. In the fish market, you can find freshly caught goods every day.

Aire de Camping-Car du Tréport on the chalk cliffs, very close to the coast. You can descend into the town via stairs or the free funicular. Facilities include electricity, tables, water supply and disposal, and waste bins.

The site is quite windy but the location is fantastic! Alternatively, there is another parking area in the town (Le Tréport Parc Sainte-Croix).

Popular months for visiting Normandy are from May to October. Temperatures are generally mild, and even in the peak summer, there can be rain and cooler days. We traveled in August instead of May due to COVID restrictions. At first, it was very warm; during the last week, it was quite cold, around 11 degrees Celsius, with almost nonstop rain and storms.

I generally recommend May or October since there are not as many tourists as in August. However, we were quite lucky during COVID and managed to find spontaneous spots at RV parking areas everywhere.

I used various travel guides for Normandy. Beforehand, several travel blogs that had already been to Normandy helped me. I also occasionally visited the tourist offices on-site, as they had excellent tips available.

Additionally, I created a Pinterest board and collected all my Normandy reports there. Here is the link to my Pinterest board for Normandy.

In France, you have the choice between toll highways and free national roads. These usually run parallel to each other. However, you will always be faster on the highway. I saved about 45 minutes on shorter routes and even 1.5 hours on longer ones (according to Google Maps).

Although highways cost tolls, they are not necessarily in good condition. They are usually empty, allowing you to get ahead quickly.

On the highway, every kilometer you drive costs money. Your vehicle is categorized accordingly. My camper is taller than 2 meters but weighs less than 3.5 tons, thus it falls into category 2. This makes it more expensive than a car or campervan under 2 meters, which belong to category 1.

On this website, you can calculate the toll for your vehicle and your route before you travel:

I recommend that you pay at toll booths with a credit card. This is the fastest way. Caution: German EC cards (Maestro) are not accepted here.

Alternatively, you can purchase a Télépéage box from the provider bipandgo before your trip. You stick the device behind your windshield. Each passage is then automatically registered, and you will receive a complete bill after your trip.

In France, like here, there are environmental zones. However, the German sticker is not sufficient; you must apply for a French Crit'Air sticker before your trip.

I pre-ordered the environmental sticker for France before taking my new camper van on my first trip to be safe. There is now a website in German, and I strongly recommend that you order the sticker only through this official channel. The sticker costs €3.11 plus shipping.

(You can also get the environmental sticker through ADAC, but you will pay four times as much.)

Cities where you already need an environmental sticker include Paris, Strasbourg, Grenoble, Lyon, Lille, and soon also Rouen, Reims, and Aix-Marseille. Check the website to see if you need a sticker. Or play it safe like I do.

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